Bulk up this basic pasta with roasted mushrooms

Aside from the absence of spring morels, mushrooms have been only more prominent lately in my kitchen.

Formerly quite the carnivore, my 2-year-old son seems to have renounced a meat-heavy diet for vegetarianism. And as every vegetarian knows, mushrooms make a savory, hearty stand-in for meat, both taste- and texture-wise. They soak up any flavor a cook can devise, ensuring their adaptability to virtually any cuisine or penchant of the palate.

Just saute them in melted butter and sprinkle them with a bit of salt, and my son will eat a good half-pound in a sitting. Because his brother won’t touch them, I often separate the mushrooms from our main dish, depositing the lion’s share on the little guy’s high-chair tray, followed by pasta, rice, cheese, fruit or whatever else is on the menu.

This recipe’s instructions for roasting mushrooms, then mounding them onto classic cacio e pepe is perfect for my purposes. It would be a delectable preparation for those morels or the oyster mushrooms that Food 4 Less in Medford recently has started stocking.

As the Detroit Free press emphasized, use plenty of salt in the pasta-cooking water, a measure that becomes even more critical for a pasta with so few ingredients. Use at least 2 tablespoons salt in the cooking water, an essential part of the sauce for this dish. Pepper and cheese are its primary components, so use at least a tablespoon of freshly ground pepper and good-quality cheese. Pecorino Romano is traditional.

Tribune News Service photo

Cacio e Pepe With Roasted Mushrooms

1 pound maitake (hen-of-the-woods) mushrooms or cremini mushrooms

2 tablespoons minced garlic

1 tablespoon crushed red-pepper flakes, or to taste

1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more for pasta water

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

13 to 16 ounces tagliatelle pasta

8 ounces Parmesan, finely grated

2 ounces (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

To prepare the mushrooms, preheat oven to 400 F.

Line a sided baking sheet with parchment paper. Break the maitake mushroom bunches in half and arrange in a single layer on baking sheet. If using cremini mushrooms, quarter them. Sprinkle the garlic, red-pepper flakes, salt and 1 tablespoon black pepper over mushrooms.

Roast in preheated oven for 20 minutes or until mushrooms are slightly crispy on edges and cooked through.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Cook pasta according to package directions until al dente.

Finely grate the Parmesan cheese into a large mixing bowl. Add the pepper and butter to bowl.

Drain pasta, reserving 1 cup cooking water. Add cooked pasta to bowl and drizzle with water until sauce reaches your desired thickness.

Top pasta with roasted mushrooms and additional Parmesan cheese. Makes 4 servings.

Recipe adapted by the Detroit Free Press from www.today.com.

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Slice some lemons for smoky pizza’s centerpiece

A lean produce bin in my kitchen sent a friend scurrying in search of the centerpiece for his own birthday feast.

If we could only track down some morels, I reasoned, that would make a fine pizza topping, along with a few slender spears of garden-fresh asparagus and some succulent, springtime chives. Because neither of us could make it to the area’s farmers markets in time, I waved him off and took a different direction, inspired by the fennel bulbs finally sizing up in the garden.

Had I wanted to venture way out on a limb, I could have composed our celebratory pizza with the one produce item I had aplenty: lemons. This pizza recipe caught my eye a few weeks back for the simple reason that lemons are one of the few ingredients that I’ve never tossed onto pizza dough. Despite the rhapsodies of Chicago Tribune writer Leah Eskin, I probably would have discounted it had I not just discovered the wonder of roasted lemons for myself a few weeks prior.

Planning to cook a whole, bone-in, skin-on turkey breast in my pellet smoker, I dry-brined the meat earlier that day and left it to repose under some thinly sliced lemons. Rather than discarding the fruit, I transferred it to the smoker, set at 250 F.

After a couple of hours in the smoker, the meat — and the lemons — were done to perfection. The former was tender and juicy with just-crisped skin. The lemons were deeply caramelized and dried to a consistency of gourmet fruit leather. I ate them all before the turkey was even carved.

With smoked mozzarella, this pizza also hits that deeply savory note. It’s a fitting use for homemade pesto, which I’m fortunate enough to still have in my freezer.

Tribune News Service photo

Smoky Lemon Pizza

1 pound prepared pizza dough

Cornmeal, as needed

1/4 cup prepared pesto

6 ounces shredded smoked mozzarella

1 lemon, thinly sliced, seeds removed

Kosher salt, to taste

2 tablespoons honey

1/4 teaspoon crushed red-pepper flakes

Heat: Set a pizza stone (or upside-down baking sheet) on lowest oven rack. Heat oven to 500 F.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out pizza dough to an 11-inch circle. Let rest for 15 minutes. Generously dust a pizza peel (or backside of a baking sheet) with the cornmeal. Gently set dough round on cornmeal.

Spread the pesto over dough, leaving bare about ½ inch at perimeter. Sprinkle with the cheese. Scatter on the lemon slices. Season lightly with the salt. Drizzle with the honey. Sprinkle with the red-pepper flakes.

It’s not hard to slide pizza off peel (or pan) and onto heated baking stone, but it takes determination. Open oven door. Lower peel to about level with stone, at a slight downward angle. Forcefully shove peel toward stone, then quickly retract it, letting pizza slide onto stone.

Let pizza bake until cheese has melted and begun to turn golden, for about 10 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes. Slice and serve.

Makes 1 (11-inch) pizza.

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Canned salmon can be a smart seafood choice

Conducting grocery-store tours, mentioned in this blog’s previous post, I always look for those light-bulb moments among participants.

But some foods remain a tough sell, particularly ones with decades of negative associations to overcome. Fish, in the Rogue Valley is one of those.

We’re not talking about chinook or steelhead fresh from the Rogue River or rainbow and brown trout plucked from local mountain lakes. Most of the fish available to most local residents in in grocery stores: flash-frozen or previously frozen and ammoniating in the grocer’s cooler with every passing hour. Either way, seafood comes with a hefty price tag, and the quality is unpredictable.

That’s why good-quality, locally caught fish from sustainable fisheries is a staple in my pantry. And if the government had its way (check its MyPlate dietary guidelines), we’d all eat more canned fish. It’s generally speaking, a high-quality protein source that’s fairly budget-friendly and, if you’re vigilant about avoiding brands with excess sodium, can contain vital nutrients, such as omega-3 fatty acids and calcium, that many Americans are lacking.

The tiny, pliable bones in canned salmon factor heavily into its calcium content. Canned salmon, however, still plays second fiddle in most consumers’ homes to tuna. The former, more costly fish probably seems like a luxury to cooks short on ideas for serving it outside of sandwiches.

I, too, consider milder tuna a bit more versatile, which is why I purchase it by the case from Chuck’s Seafood in Charleston, mentioned in previous posts. But when I’m picking up my season’s stock of olive oil-packed albacore, I always tack on a half-dozen cans or so of coho salmon.

The species, compared with pink and chinook, is relatively obscure as a canned commodity. With a more delicate texture and milder flavor than chinook, it’s also slightly less expensive. My family loves it in salmon burgers with homemade coleslaw.

Try canned salmon in the following recipe, which goes great inside a bun or solo on the plate. While this version, courtesy of the Chicago Tribune, calls for cooked salmon, canned works just fine. I added an egg to the mixture and used panko, rather than fresh, breadcrumbs.

Tribune News Service photo

Salmon Cakes

Mix together 1/4 cup mayonnaise, 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh dill, 1/4 cup finely chopped red onion, finely grated zest of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Add 1 3/4 pounds cooked salmon, skin, bones and gray strip of flesh discarded. Mix gently.

Pat into 8 cakes, each about 1 inch thick. Roll cakes in 1 1/4 cups fresh breadcrumbs. Heat a thin film of oil in a skillet set over medium heat. Cook salmon cakes in batches until crisp outside and hot inside, for 2 to 3 minutes per side.

Makes 8 cakes.

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Fans of braising fennel, look to luscious leeks

Meal planning around fresh produce in this transitional season admittedly is a bit tricky.

Grocery stores and farmers markets offer root vegetables that either overwintered or have weathered months in storage, along with some of the season’s first greens. Anything else has traveled from Mexico or much farther south.

That makes grocery shopping something of a scavenger hunt to ferret out flavors that taste of spring. From February through the end of this month, my eyes easily pick out big, beautiful bulbs of fennel and lengths of luscious leeks.

Huh? How do you plan a dish around those vegetables? Or so wondered participants in a grocery-store tour I hosted last week for ACCESS volunteers.

Simple. With mild — dare I say sweet — flavors and a temperament for long cooking, they can go in just about anything. In my kitchen, those dishes are soups, stews, pasta, quiche, risotto or simply roasted or braised and served alongside a main course.

Perhaps it’s my treatment of them, but fennel and, to an even greater degree, leeks are among the few vegetables that my kids don’t eat around at mealtimes. It takes minimal coaxing to ensure that this duo essentially melt into other ingredients.

Meltingly tender and almost succulent, my favorite braised fennel has been a topic of this blog since its inaugural year. And since spying this recipe from the Chicago Tribune, I no longer have an excuse for exempting leeks from the sear-and-simmer routine. I don’t hold much hope that my kids will relish these, but leftovers certainly could find their way in smaller bits to their plates.

Tribune News Service photo

Roasted and Braised Leeks

12 medium leeks

6 tablespoons melted butter

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 cups hot chicken broth (preferably homemade) plus up to 1 1/2 cups additional

Kosher salt, to taste

Trim away root frills from each of the leek. Trim away dark-green leaves, leaving white and pale-green portions. Starting at leaf ends, slice leeks in half, stopping 3 inches from root ends. Fan layers of leaf ends under cool, running water to rinse away dirt and grit.

Choose a roasting pan that will offer your leeks a snug fit in a single layer. A 9-by-13-by-2-inch pan should do. Swirl the butter and oil in pan. Settle in cleaned leeks.

Slide pan into a 500-degree oven and roast, for 15 minutes. Pull out pan. Use tongs to turn over each leek. Roast for 7 minutes. Pull out pan and turn leeks. Pour in 2 cups broth. Roast for 10 minutes. Turn leeks. Roast for 10 more minutes. If you started with leeks fatter than 1 inch in diameter, pour in another 1/2 cup broth and roast for 10 more minutes.

If you’re working ahead, let leeks cool. At serving time, pour in an additional 1 cup broth and heat at 500 F for 10 minutes. Either way, lift leeks out of their braising bath. Sprinkle with salt. Serve warm.

Makes 4 servings.

Recipe adapted by the Chicago Tribune from “Roasting: A Simple Art” by Barbara Kafka.

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Spaghetti pie is another form of fast, frugal frittata

Frittata, perhaps more than any other food, recommends this blog to new readers.

My chance choice of search engine-friendly wording for the headline of a 2010 post widens this blog’s reach to anyone looking for “no-stick frittata.” Go ahead and Google it. If I’d know that it would be this blog’s most popular entry to date, I wouldn’t have so prominently proclaimed myself incapable of producing dinner on a realistic time line.

But that’s where “back-pocket” meals like frittata come in. As food writer Daniel Neman showed in this week’s front-page spread for A la Carte, frittata really are the ultimate blank slate, suited to breakfast, lunch, dinner or anytime between. He even adapted the concept for a riff on the classic dessert crepes Suzette.

While I’ve planned plenty of frittata to feed a brunch crowd, I usually make them off the cuff, frequently just for myself. The inspiration often is a handful of potatoes or roasted vegetables that don’t constitute a second-round side dish. Sometimes cooked noodles that fall short of a full serving suggest “pasta frittata.”

Here’s an iteration of spaghetti pie that repurposes leftovers to avoid food waste, according to a recent story by the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette. Remember, though, that this is a very loose technique. More eggs could be used, as well as less pasta. And there’s no reason the recipe couldn’t be prepared in a single skillet, starting with rewarming the pasta, provided it was oven-safe.

Tribune News Service photo

Leftover Spaghetti Pie

1/4 cup olive oil

1/2 pound leftover pasta

Salt, to taste

1 teaspoon red-pepper flakes, or to taste

3 large eggs

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for topping

About 1/4 cup milk or light cream

1 cup cooked and crumbled sweet Italian sausage

1 cup diced tomato

Preheat over to 350 F.

Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pasta, season to taste with the salt and red-pepper flakes; toss to coat until warm.

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs and then stir in the cheese, milk or cream, sausage and tomato.

Pour warm pasta into bowl with egg mixture; toss to combine ingredients. Pour spaghetti mixture into a greased, 10-inch pie plate; push noodles up onto sides and bottom to form a crust. (Alternatively, press mixture into a springform pan.) Sprinkle with additional cheese, if desired, and bake in preheated oven for 25 minutes.

Serve warm or at room temperature, with additional red-pepper flakes.

Makes 4 servings.

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Flaxseed meal can replace quick breads’ eggs, oil

A decade ago, when I first started writing about alternative baking methods, egg replacers still posed something of stumbling block.

One of my most reliable, knowledgeable sources was known to say that nothing can really replace an egg. I wonder all this time later what she would say about aquafaba, the chickpea water lauded in a previous post.

She usually recommended 1 tablespoon flaxseed meal mixed with 3 tablespoons water as a substitute for 1 beaten egg. But that goo, of course, won’t whip up like egg whites — or aquafaba, for that matter — which relegates its use to quick breads and the like.

Flaxseed meal is more redeeming in my recipes as an oil substitute. I’m often baffled by the quantity of oil called for in certain batters, particularly those published in the 1980s and ’90s before butter made its triumphant comeback.

Although it has an egg, my standby Betty Crocker recipe for blueberry muffins calls for ¼ cup vegetable oil. Blech! In that case, flaxseed meal is a simple swap and adds healthful fiber and a delicious, nutty flavor to the finished muffins.

Pancakes and waffles are another obvious repository for flaxseed meal. It certainly could stand in for the oil in the following eggless pancakes if the soy or almond milk, listed as optional, was incorporated.

I’ve often used nut or soy milks in pancakes that my husband claims to like even better than those made with milk. I think it’s because they tend to be a bit thinner and crispier around the edges.

Tribune News Service photo

Vegan Pancakes

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon oil

1 teaspoon vanilla

2 tablespoons soy or almond milk (optional)

Into a large bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt. In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, vanilla, optional soy or almond milk and 1 ¼ cups water. Make a well in center of dry ingredients and pour in wet ingredients. Stir until just blended.

Heat a lightly oiled griddle or skillet over medium-high heat. Pour batter in 6-inch puddles onto griddle or skillet. Cook until bubbles form in batter and edges are dry; check underneath to see if bottom is lightly browned. Flip and cook until browned on other side. Repeat with remaining batter.

Makes about 8 to 10 (6-inch) pancakes.

Recipe courtesy of Tribune News Service.

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Chickpea liquid makes for ‘fab’ egg-free desserts

A taste of vegan fare has flavored this blog for the past week, before the newspaper’s A la Carte section ran a spread on vegan “comfort” food.

To go with this week’s recipes for tacos and burgers, let’s add a sweet treat that anyone can enjoy. Instead of eggs and dairy, this chocolate mousse relies on aquafaba, the water from canned chickpeas that has taken the vegan world by storm in the past couple of years.

Everyone who’s strained a can of chickpeas, myself included, to watch the viscous liquid slip down the kitchen drain would hardly believe that it beats up almost exactly like egg whites. Who knew?

So the story goes, American software engineer Goose Wohlt perfected meringue from chickpea liquid in 2015 after studying earlier attempts by French cooks. Now aquafaba is heralded as a miracle egg replacer in all manner of recipes, even cocktails that traditionally would incorporate raw egg white. Read more about it in this week’s Breaking Bread column, which includes a recipe for meringues.

Whipped egg whites, of course, are the foundation of classic mousse preparations. This one, according to the Chicago Tribune, is even more “fabulous” for its exclusion of raw egg and embrace of the aquafaba craze.

Tribune News Service photo

Aquafabulous Mousse

6 ounces bittersweet chocolate (60 percent cacao)

1 (15.5-ounce) can chickpeas (aka garbanzo beans)

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

1/2 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Break up the chocolate. Melt in a double boiler. Scrape into another bowl and let cool a bit.

Positioning a wide measuring cup to catch liquid under a strainer, drain the chickpeas, reserving liquid from can. Save chickpeas for another recipe. Measure 3/4 cup liquid (this is aquafaba) into bowl of an electric mixer.

Whisk the cream of tartar into aquafaba. Using electric mixer, whisk liquid until white and foamy, for about 1 minute. Slowly cascade in the sugar, whisking liquid continuously to sturdy peaks, for about 4 more minutes. Whisk in the vanilla.

Using a soft spatula, gently and thoroughly fold chocolate into meringue. Heap into a serving bowl. Cover and chill for 2 or more hours.

Scoop into small bowls. If you like, garnish with orange zest, a few candied nuts or, if no vegans are looking, whipped cream.

Makes 4 servings.

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Nut-butter sauce adds healthful fat to hearty salad

Dinner with a friend who recently adopted a vegan diet introduced us to chickpeas as “sloppy Joes.” Unlike the lentils she first tried as a meat substitute in her favorite filling recipe, the chickpeas lent a firmer texture to the mixture.

While I’m a fan of chickpeas in all manner of curries, stews and other cooked preparations, I still enjoy them as a salad component and welcome new combinations beyond the classic Greek salad. One of my favorites is a recipe posted a coupe of winters ago using fingerling potatoes and collard greens.

Similar is this recipe from Tribune News Service sweet potatoes and arugula with a creamy almond-butter sauce, a good way for vegans to add more healthful fats to their diets. Peanut, cashew or sunflower butters also could be used.

Tribune News Service photo

Sweet Potato Medallions With Almond Sauce and Chickpea Salad

4 small (4-ounce) sweet potatoes

1/4 cup creamy, natural almond butter

3 1/2 tablespoons warm water

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, divided

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1 (15-ounce) can unsalted chickpeas, rinsed and drained

5 ounces baby arugula

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

Prick the potatoes all over with a fork; place on a microwave-safe plate and microwave at high just until tender, for about 5 minutes. Cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds.

In a bowl, whisk together the almond butter, 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice and 3 ½ tablespoons warm water. Set aside.

Brush potato slices on 1 side with 1 tablespoon of the oil. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Working in batches, cook potato slices, oiled-sides down, until golden-brown, or for about 2 minutes. Be careful not to burn medallions.

In a large bowl, combine the chickpeas, arugula, salt, pepper, remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice and 1 tablespoon oil. Divide chickpea mixture among 4 plates; top with sweet potato slices. Drizzle with almond-butter sauce.

Makes 4 servings.

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Springlike rice pilaf a no-stir substitute for risotto

A friend’s plans to host a hands-on dinner party set us to brainstorming. What entrée would feed a group while allowing everyone an opportunity to pitch in?

Risotto, I replied. It needs a lot of stirring and as long as you have plenty of appetizers and beverages, it makes for an enjoyable evening in the kitchen among friends that doesn’t entail too much effort by any one person.

But what if the consensus was something a bit easier on the arms and wrists? I ran across this rice pilaf recipe that would fill the bill, coming together much more quickly. It uses two of my favorite spring vegetables — leeks and asparagus — for risotto. And with protein from edamame and pistachios, it has enough heft as a main dish. Substituting olive or coconut oil for the butter would suit it to my vegan friend and others in her group.

Tribune News Service photo

Spring Green Pilaf

1 1/2 cups basmati rice

4 tablespoons butter

2 leeks, light-green portions thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

1 teaspoon garam masala

Salt, to taste

16 ounces vegetable stock

1 cup shelled edamame, defrosted if frozen

12 ounces asparagus, sliced into 1 1/2 inches

1/2 teaspoon chili flakes

1/4 cup pistachios, shelled and salted

Small bunch fresh dill, finely chopped

In a bowl, rinse the rice and cover with cold water.

Melt the butter in a pot over a medium heat. Once it begins foaming, add the leeks and cook for 8 minutes until softened. Add the garlic, garam masala and salt, and stir for 2 more minutes.

Drain rice, add it to leeks and stir to coat in butter. Pour in the stock and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and cook for 10 minutes.

Add the edamame and asparagus. Add the chili powder and salt; stir gently. Cover and cook for another 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside to steam for 10 minutes.

Toast the pistachios in a pan. Turn off heat and add the dill; stir for 2 minutes. Scatter nuts and dill on top of rice. Makes 6 servings.

— Recipe adapted by the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette from “Posh Rice” by Emily Kydd.

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Creamy balsamic sauce irresistible to vinegar fans

Two of the condiments — ketchup and mustard — essential to my husband’s culinary enjoyment are predictable enough. Balsamic vinegar, as the third member of his taste trifecta, perhaps pegs him as not exactly “all-American.”

Curiously, a man who can’t abide the smell of vinegar cooking will eat just about anything doused in that sweet-tart elixir so often associated with Italian cuisine. Of course, most of the vinegars available at American grocers aren’t truly “aceto balsamico,” as they are known in Italy. But given the rate at which Will consumes it, we can hardly justify the gourmet versions aged for decades.

But that frees us to experiment with balsamic vinegar in myriad recipes. I can rely on warm balsamic vinaigrette to recommend just about any salad for Will’s consumption. Chicken breast, the subject of this blog’s previous post, already is a shoe-in. With this creamy balsamic sauce, he’d find it irresistible.

Tribune News Service photo

Creamy Balsamic Skillet Chicken

1 1/2 pounds skinless, boneless chicken breasts

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon butter

1 small yellow onion, peeled and sliced

2 to 3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced (or about 1/2 teaspoon bottled minced garlic)

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, divided

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, divided

1/2 cup chicken broth

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

8 ounces mushrooms (stem ends trimmed), quartered

1/4 cup heavy cream

1 1/2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves or 1/2 teaspoon dried

Cut each of the chicken breasts lengthwise into 2 or 3 strips, then cut each strip in 2. Cover with plastic wrap and pound lightly, to make small cutlets. Set aside.

In a wide skillet, heat the oil and butter over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 4 minutes, then add the garlic and cook for 1 minute.

Combine the flour, 1/2 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon of the paper on a plate. Dip each piece of chicken and place in skillet with onions and garlic. Cook, turning occasionally, until just a little golden and browned but not cooked entirely way through. Remove chicken pieces to a plate and set aside.

Add the chicken broth and balsamic vinegar to pan, then add the mushrooms and remaining salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits and turning mushrooms. Cook for 2 or 3 minutes.

Add the cream, then return all chicken pieces to pan, turning to coat with sauce. Simmer for about 3 minutes, until chicken is cooked through and sauce thickens a little. Sprinkle with the thyme and serve.

Makes 4 servings.

Recipe from “The Weeknight Dinner Cookbook,” by Mary Younkin (Page Street, 2016)

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    Sarah Lemon

    Sarah Lemon covers the Rogue Valley’s food scene with an enthusiasm that rivals her love of cooking. Her blog mixes culinary musings and milestones with tips and recipes you won’t find in the Mail Tribune’s weekly A la Carte section. When ... Read Full
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