Sometimes readers, foodies can agree

The new look of Mail Tribune blogs comes, unfortunately, with a period of time during which readers will be unable to post comments.

This, of course, isn’t the ultimate plan, but we’re apparently waiting for the newspaper’s corporate powers that be to finish constructing the rest of our blog features.

The lapse couldn’t have come at a much worse time for this blog, in particular, when I asked foodies to weigh in with their “best of” picks to coincide with the newspaper’s annual Readers’ Choice awards. We tried to cobble together a means of commenting through Rogue Current, but the social networking site doesn’t provide the same ease of dashing off a comment as the blogs do. Sigh.

Thank you to the four people who did comment. I’m still going to give my picks for local restaurants and other food-related endeavors and mention when they coincide with readers’.

Best new restaurant: Palace Café. Restaurateur Helena Darling has long brought fresh inspiration and masterful cooking to Ashland’s restaurant scene. Darling opened her Palace Café on A Street this year with the mission of providing high-quality housemade charcuterie. I can vouch for her chicken liver paté, which is amazing, but also a number of other dishes. Salads always comprise the freshest ingredients with imaginative combinations and dressings. Sandwiches are enormous and delicious. If your sandwich comes wrapped in a paper sheath, you’re not eating at a restaurant, in my opinion.

Best Asian food: I love Asian cuisine almost more than any other. Yet, disagreeing with readers, I struggle every year to name a favorite in this category. I initially was impressed by the homemade nature of steamed buns and dumplings at Seoul Garden, the new Korean-fusion restaurant by Food 4 Less, less so on a return visit. I’m crossing my fingers that a new Vietnamese restaurant rumored to be opening in the former Kat Wok space will deliver some authentic Asian food, sorely needed in this area.

Best bakery: I’m going with last year’s foodies’ choice — Deux Chats in Ashland, which makes perfect baguettes and tons of other European-style breads and pastries. Like readers, I do like many of Great Harvest’s products, though, especially the free slice of bread.

Best bar, pub or lounge: A rapid growth in the area’s Irish pubs (readers chose 4 Daughters) coincided with the local advent of wine bars. I tend to prefer the latter, like the foodie who picked Liquid Assets in Ashland and Elements in Medford. If you haven’t checked out Enoteca for wine-tasting on Ashland’s plaza, you should. Ashland’s Tease is also a nice spot for a glass of wine or mixed drink with appetizers and is rapidly becoming known as a venue for live entertainment.

Best bartender: I included this category, along with wait staff, to give service professionals their due, but I don’t actually have a favorite.

Best breakfast: I still have to go with last year’s foodies’ choice of Morning Glory, an eatery I frequented probably more than any other during my college years. The Ashland restaurant’s whimsical atmosphere is half the experience.

Best burger: Readers and foodies alike swear by Jasper’s and Eddy’s, both in Medford. I can’t disagree and would only like to see either best Red Robin. A chain shouldn’t take pride of place over local businesses.       

Best coffee: At least the chains Human Bean and Dutch Bros. are locally based, justifying readers’ nods. But Ashland’s Noble Coffee is making inroads in local restaurants. Depending on how it’s brewed, Noble Coffee can be superb, as foodie Michael Davis pointed out. 

Best deli: When Darling opened Palace, she was also opening a deli, with lots of prepared food items, meats, etc., in a refrigerator case to be taken to go. Just down the street, Ashland Food Co-op’s deli delivers hot and cold prepared food items, as well as meats and cheeses. Readers typically pick Deli Down or Squeeze Inn, which are more like restaurants.

Best dessert: So many local restaurants serve outrageous desserts (and not in disposable paper cups), that it’s hard to choose. But for high-quality, fresh sweets and treats that can be purchased to-go, my vote goes to Ashland’s Mix for its assortment of tarts, éclairs, cookies, cupcakes and gelato.

Best grocery store: It’s nice to agree with readers on this one. Readers of this blog know I (and so many other customers) shop at Medford’s Food 4 Less because the price is right and the owners support the local community with numerous charitable donations. If I can’t find what I’m looking for there, I go to Ashland’s Shop ’N‘ Kart or Ashland Food Co-op.

Best Italian food: I used to favor Pasta Piatti in Ashland, which has slipped a bit in recent years. None of the other local restaurants really stands heads and tails above the rest.

Best Mexican food: The most authentic, of course, are the various taco trucks around town. They’re also cheap. For a change of pace, I like Talent’s Inti for its pillowy, homemade flour tortillas and wide variety of fillings that you won’t find at other local Mexican eateries.

Best microbrew: I’m not much of a beer drinker, but I can’t disagree with readers’ choice of Standing Stone Brewing Co., in Ashland. The business is dedicated to being environmentally friendly and sustainable, to boot.

Best pizza: Score again! Readers and foodies agree that Kaleidoscope is hands-down the best pizza locally and also has a staggering number of brews on tap and wines by the glass.

Best seafood: Because I’m from the coast, I find most seafood in the Rogue Valley lacking, so I’m going to take a pass in this category. Ditto for the next category of “best steak” on account of dietary preference, but surely readers could have done better than the chain Outback Steakhouse.

Best wine: I do have lots of opinions here and have tasted so many good, local wines in the past few years that I can hardly begin to name a favorite. A slight nod goes to Del Rio both because the winery is convenient for wine-tasting close to home, and because I love their rose and viognier. Schmidt Family Vineyards is another favorite for its gorgeous grounds and high-quality wines.

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Foodies, let’s hear what you think

Results from the annual Mail Tribune Readers Choice Awards aren’t exactly known for pushing the envelope where food is concerned.

So three years ago, at the suggestion of another editor, this blog initiated the “Foodies Choice” award. Web readers have responded with an enthusiasm that almost matches Readers Choice with their picks for the best of each category.

I’ll reiterate the annual caveat that no disrespect is intended toward the winners of Readers Choice (I’m already privy to the results, which will become public on Sunday). I like to think of the foodies’ version as a forum for the more discerning palates and industry experts. It just so happens that sharp tongues sometimes can accompany sharp appetites.

To weigh in on this year’s poll, simply click the “add a comment” button at the bottom of this post. That link will take you to roguecurrent.com, where we’re collecting responses. Feel free to respond to all or just some of the categories. I’ll tally up the votes for each and post the results next week and, of course, add my 2 cents.

Here’s this year’s ballot:

Best new restaurant
Best Asian food
Best bakery
Best bar, pub or lounge
Best bartender
Best breakfast
Best burger
Best coffee
Best deli
Best dessert
Best grocery store
Best Italian food
Best Mexican food
Best microbrew
Best pizza
Best seafood
Best steak
Best wait staff
Best wine

Add a comment

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Why wait for Turkey Day? Roast bird’s breast anytime

We could have a mutiny on our hands, but my mom and I already are plotting ways to make over Thanksgiving with a little more interest and to be a little more healthful.

Instead of the fat-laden miasma of canned green beans and cream of mushroom soup, we’re angling for braised Brussels sprouts. For the first time in memory, we’ll start with carrot-ginger or squash soup for a little more beta-carotene. As for the mashed potatoes, we’re toying with the addition of wasabi rather than heavy cream and butter.

And if so many people didn’t prefer dark meat, we might even consider a roast turkey breast rather than the whole bird. Turkey breast makes a fine meal, though, anytime a roast supper is warranted. Mulling over what I would cook for my mom’s long-overdue visit this week, I thought of turkey breast and then crossed my fingers that some remained at Food 4 Less despite the late hour I hit the store on Sunday. With a grateful sigh, I snagged one of a lonely pair from the meat case.

I buy a lot of turkey products anyway, but what we’re talking about here is the bone-in, skin-on breast portion that’s been excised from the whole bird. It’s slightly smaller than a whole roast chicken and just about the right size for feeding four people. Because we’re only two, we’ll have plenty of leftovers for sandwiches and soup later in the week. When serving a bone-in turkey breast, figure about three-quarters of a pound per person, rather than the 1-pound-per-person rule for a whole turkey.

I had planned to marinate the meat last night in a mixture of garlic, herbs, a little mustard and cider vinegar but ran out of time while wrestling with my walnut harvest. But I’ve found that liberally oiling the skin and smearing it with a mixture of parsley, lemon zest and garlic before roasting produces admirable results, too. The secret is roasting at a high temperature (think 400 F) so the skin crisps up and the meat doesn’t dry out.

Gravies aren’t common in my kitchen, but I know some at home would appreciate one every now and then. The following recipe, courtesy of the Detroit Free Press is worth a try, either now or for your Thanksgiving meal.

Roast Turkey Breast With Cider Gravy

1 bone-in turkey breast, about 5 1/2 pounds

1/3 cup maple syrup

2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard

Salt and fresh ground black pepper, to taste

1 teaspoon Morton Nature’s Seasons Seasoning blend or favorite all-purpose seasoning

2 cups fresh apple cider or apple juice, divided

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 cups (or more) turkey stock or low-salt chicken broth

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut ribs and backbone out of the turkey breast, if desired, so it rests evenly in pan. Pat turkey dry with paper towel. Set it on a rack in a roasting pan.

In a small bowl, mix together the maple syrup and mustard. Pour half into another bowl and reserve. Brush other half all over turkey. Season all over with the salt, pepper and seasoning blend.

Roast turkey breast one hour and baste with any pan juices. Reduce oven temperature to 325 F. Pour 1 cup of the apple cider over turkey. Continue to roast turkey until instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh registers 165 F, about another 45 minutes depending on size.

Transfer turkey breast to a platter and brush with remaining maple syrup mixture. Tent loosely with foil and let rest 30 minutes.

While turkey breast rests, make gravy. Pour all pan juices into a large measuring cup; set aside. Spoon off and discard fat that rises to surface. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter. Sprinkle in the flour and stir to make a roux. Slowly pour in reserved pan juices. Add the stock or broth and remaining 1 cup apple cider. Bring to a boil over high heat and boil liquid until reduced to 1 1/2 cups, about 10 minutes. Season with the fresh sage.

Slice turkey breast and serve with cider gravy.

Makes 4 servings.

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Canned pumpkin perfect on your plate or your face

Much as many of us would like to cook with whole ingredients, sometimes it’s just not worth the bother.

Such is the case with pumpkin. Those sweet little sugar pumpkins seem like such ideal sources of “real” fall flavor.

But I know from experience, that once they’ve been cracked open, the seeds scooped out, the rind peeled off and the flesh roasted and pureed, that the texture and flavor still don’t meet expectations. At least the expectations cooks develop during such a lengthy process.

I’m not trying to discourage anyone from consuming the small pumpkins intended for that purpose, but most seasoned cooks agree that canned pumpkin puree produces identical — some would say preferable — results to puree obtained the hard way. It’s usually a question of texture. Real roasted pumpkin retains a stringiness that takes yet more labor to rectify.

So most of us this time of year turn to Libby’s canned pumpkin puree. The only rub, of course, when dealing with cans is that many recipes don’t use the whole thing, particularly the 29-ouncer. Despite my annual insistence that we only need one pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving, my mom’s response is always, “The can makes two.” How to argue with that?

Instead of arguing, I’ve been looking for alternative ways to use up pumpkin. I was charmed by the resourceful Cox family of Medford who uses canned pumpkin puree as an all-natural facial mask, as featured in this month’s Healthy Living magazine. The mask itself is entirely edible, if you’re into baby-food textures.

Also an enthusiastic cook, 20-year-old Lauren Cox, the author of “EcoBeauty,” effortlessly blurs the line between food and cosmetics in her new book, which is chock-full of fun holiday gift ideas. “EcoBeauty” is available in major bookstores and online for $19.95.

If you’d rather eat your food than wear it, try this fast pasta recipe that combines pantry staples, including pumpkin puree, leftover or fresh out of the can. Yielding a creamy sauce with the aid of pumpkin rather than a lot of fat-filled dairy products, this dish comes together in 20 minutes.

Pasta with Creamy Pumpkin Sauce

8 to 10 ounces multigrain angel-hair pasta

1 medium shallot

3 medium cloves garlic

2 sprigs sage leaves

1 tablespoon olive oil

3/4 cup canned unsweetened pumpkin puree

3/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth

1/2 cup low-fat milk

Kosher salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, divided

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions (6 to 7 minutes).

Meanwhile, mince the shallot and garlic; finely chop the sage.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add shallot and garlic; cook for 3 minutes, stirring, until they have softened. Add the pumpkin puree, chicken broth, milk and half of the sage. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook for 10 minutes, stirring frequently, until sauce is slightly thickened. Season with salt and pepper to taste; keep warm on lowest setting.

Drain pasta and add to sauce, then add 2 tablespoons of the cheese and mix well. Divide among individual plates and sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of cheese and remaining sage. Serve with steamed broccoli.

Makes 4 servings.

— Recipe adapted from “The Ski House Cookbook,” by Tina Anderson and Sarah Pinneo.

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Downtown Throwdown joins local food events

As the season for food-centered events gears up, downtown Medford is emerging with a popular new tradition: the Downtown Throwdown.

Regular participants in the Third Friday Art Walk are already familiar with the throwdown, which debuted in July. It’s the brainchild of Nora LaBrocca, a designer for Terra Firma Home and owner of the quasi-catering company Downtown Market Co. Incidentally, LaBrocca has earned top marks in all three previous throwdowns against the stiff competition of 38 Central, Elements Tapas Bar & Lounge, Jackson Creek Pizza Co. and Deli Down.

The restaurants each start with a secret ingredient that a neutral party pulls from a group of envelopes. Typically seasonal, past ingredients were squash, heirloom tomatoes and figs. Last week, yours truly pulled this throwdown’s main ingredient: garlic.

With that theme, each competitor prepares 100 “bites” served free of charge, first-come-first-serve at Rogue Art Gallery & Art Center, My Daughter’s Closet, Molly Reed, Facets Jewelry Studio and Terra Firma Home. Tasters fill out a ballot at each stop, rating the food on a scale of one to five in the categories of “taste,” “use of ingredient” and “presentation.”

LaBrocca says her background as a designer has given her the advantage in presentation. Last month, Deli Down almost beat her fig tarts with mascarpone filling and red-currant glaze with its layered fig and cheese spread. Jackson Creek Pizza did a fig pie that was so popular several customers asked the next week if they could order it, she adds.

The tasting starts at 5 p.m., and “bites” were consumed by 6:30 p.m. last month, LaBrocca says.

If you’re keen for more Friday-night entertainment on the food front, consider the benefit concert at Ashland’s Stillwater for Rogue Valley Farm to School. Fittingly, the local Americanca-bluegrass-folk band Hamfist is covering Neil Young’s album “Harvest” in their first set, which begins at 9 p.m. There’s a $5 cover at the door, 1951 Highway 66, Ashland.

Rogue Valley Farm to School educates children about the food system through hands-on farm and garden programs and endeavors to provide local foods for school meals. This is one of several shows and forums Stillwater has hosted this growing season to benefit farm and food projects.

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Walnuts, figs are fleeting fall delights

When its fruit is blackened and turning to mush on the ground, a backyard walnut tree doesn’t seem like such a boon.

But in a year such as this when the husk-fly infestation has been minimal and rain has yet to bring the leaves and fruit down in one fell swoop, harvesting walnuts is a bit like an Easter egg hunt, only in autumn.

I noticed the first few walnuts, beautifully brown and dry, littering the ground yesterday when I was out picking garden greens for a salad. Plans had already been laid for a salad with mission figs, gorgonzola cheese and walnuts — the store-bought ones in my freezer. But now — rejoice! — I had walnuts fresh off the tree to enjoy.

The discovery was thrilling since last year had failed to produce a harvest. I gathered from the enormous quantity of smashed shells littering the ground that squirrels beat us to all the nuts. This year, I may have to present my mother-in-law’s new chocolate Lab with some extra-special treats for keeping the pilferers away.

Happily, my mother-in-law, herself, lets me have all the walnuts I want from the tree. After one year’s bumper crop when we both roasted walnuts, she commented that she didn’t care for the “fishy” taste of these. I simply take it as an indicator that more of the omega fatty acids must be intact. Once I freed them from the shell, roasting the nuts quickly in a medium-hot pan brought out the characteristic rich, slightly tannic flavor.

It was the perfect complement to gorgonzola-stuffed figs wrapped in a little prosciutto and oven-roasted for about 10 minutes. On top of arugula and assorted lettuces and dressed with a fig-walnut vinaigrette I purchased at Ashland’s Shop ’N‘ Kart, the components made for a filling meal with a little garlic toast.

Tonight will see me drying the rest in a low-temperature oven so they’ll keep through the winter. Local walnut purveyor Jeff Anderson advises against heating walnuts to temperatures in excess of 115 degrees. Many walnuts found in stores have scorched and bitter spots due to damaging heat, he says. Look for walnuts soon at the Rogue Valley Growers and Crafters Market.

Here’s a 15-minute recipe for a salad similar to mine that demonstrates how easy it is to make frico, or crisps from grated, hard Italian cheeses like Parmesan. Figs’ short season should extend through this month. Enjoy them while you can.

Roasted Fig Salad With Crisped Cheese

1 large clove garlic

Pinch Maldon sea salt, plus more to taste

2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar or fig vinegar

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

Freshly ground black pepper

4 1/2 ounces finely grated aged pecorino Romano cheese (may substitute Parmigiano-Reggiano)

12 small ripe black mission figs (or 8 large figs)

2 teaspoons light-brown sugar (optional)

3 to 4 ounces salad greens, such as watercress, Boston or frisee lettuces

1/2 cup basil leaves

1/2 cup chervil leaves

3/4 cup walnut halves (optional)

Preheat oven to 400 F. Have ready a large rimmed baking sheet.

Smash and peel the garlic. Use a chef’s knife and a little salt to mash garlic clove into a paste on your cutting board. Transfer to a small container and add the vinegar and oil to form a dressing. Taste and season with black pepper and salt as needed.

Create about 8 small piles of the grated cheese (about 1/2 tablespoon’s worth each), spaced at least 2 inches apart on your baking sheet. Flatten slightly and bake on middle oven rack for 4 to 5 minutes or until lightly golden, especially on edges. Use a thin spatula to transfer cheese to a plate before disks cool into crisps. (Keep oven at 400 F.)

Wash the figs, then cut them in half lengthwise. Place them cut sides up on baking sheet that was used to make cheese crisps (there should be a little oily residue from cheese that will keep the figs from sticking). Sprinkle figs with the brown sugar, if desired, and bake/roast for 5 to 6 minutes, until fruit has softened and sugar has melted.

While figs are in oven, wash and dry the salad greens; tear the herbs into small pieces. Combine salad greens and herbs in a large mixing bowl. Drizzle lightly with dressing and toss gently to mix well. Divide among individual plates, then add the walnuts, if desired, and cheese crisps. Divide figs evenly among plates, placing them atop salad greens; drizzle with a little olive oil. Serve with warmed corn bread or focaccia while figs are warm.

Makes 4 servings.

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Apples, harvest recipes ready for picking

Like Neighborhood Harvest’s high season for fruit, a bumper crop of apple recipes is hitting food publications.

After readying this week’s batch of recipes for printing in A la Carte and posting online, I received several new ones, including a couple that seemed too good to hold onto much longer. Our source is The Washington Post with its trusty test kitchen.

I’m always grateful for some new twists on using apples. The tree outside our house is weighted down and looks to produce at least a few bushels this year. I’ve made applesauce and apple butter in the past and eaten apples for two months solid, so a few alternatives are in order.

The first recipe for apple crisps is a more healthful version of those bagged apple chips found in stores and can be prepared for practically nothing, particularly if the apples come free of charge. The fact that these crisps can remain in a low-temperature oven for hours makes these an attractive, no-muss, no-fuss preserving project that could be accomplished in small batches, even on weekday evenings.

The second recipe calling for fruit in an ethnic side dish marries those spices that typically accompany apples with some savory components. As my tastes tend toward the savory, I took care to balance this week’s dessert recipes with fennel-apple slaw and pork tenderloin braised with apples, but one more dish certainly can’t hurt. The Post’s recipe also put me in mind of adding apples, onions and either meat or legumes to my favorite jarred curry sauce manufactured by Seeds of Change.

Apple Crisps

2 tablespoons evaporated cane juice (organic sugar)

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

2 large apples, such as Fuji or Braeburn

Position oven racks on middle and lower rungs; preheat to 200 F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Combine the evaporated cane juice (organic sugar), cinnamon and nutmeg in a small bowl.

Use a mandoline or a steady hand and a knife to cut the apples vertically into 1/8-inch-thick rounds. You do not need to core or peel apples. Seeds will fall out or can easily be removed from apple slices after cutting.

Arrange apple slices on prepared baking sheets in a single layer; sprinkle with cinnamon mixture. Bake for 1 1/2 hours, then rotate sheets top to bottom and front to back. Bake for 1 hour, then turn off oven. If apple slices are not dry and crisp, leave in the (closed) oven overnight.

Use a spatula to loosen crisps from parchment paper; store in an airtight container for 3 or 4 days. Makes about 48 apple crisps; 4 (12-chip) servings.

— Recipe adapted by The Washington Post from “Petit Appetit: Eat, Drink, and Be Merry,” by Lisa Barnes (Perigee, 2009).

 

Moroccan Chickpeas With Apples

1 or 2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, preferably a sweet variety, cut into 1/4- to 1/2-inch dice (1 cup)

1 medium red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and cut into 1/4- to 1/2-inch dice (1 cup)

1 medium Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4- to 1/2-inch dice (1 cup)

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Pinch cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon double-concentrated tomato paste (see note; may substitute 1 tablespoon tomato paste)

3 cups cooked chickpeas (may substitute no-salt-added canned chickpeas, rinsed and drained)

3/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth (may substitute water)

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

Leaves from 3 or 4 sprigs flat-leaf parsley, chopped (2 or 3 tablespoons)

Heat just enough of the oil to coat bottom of a large saute pan or skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and bell pepper; cook for 3 minutes, then add the apple and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt. Cook for about 4 minutes, stirring occasionally, until vegetables soften.

Add the cinnamon, cumin, allspice, cloves, cayenne pepper and tomato paste; mix well and cook for 1 minute. Add the chickpeas, broth and brown sugar; mix well. Cook until liquid comes to a boil, then cover the pan or skillet, reduce heat as needed to maintain a very low boil and cook for 15 minutes. Taste and add 1/4 teaspoon salt if needed. If mixture is soupy, increase heat to high and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until liquid has reduced and slightly thickened. Remove from heat; add the parsley and mix well. Serve hot or at room temperature. Mixture can be cooled for 20 minutes, then covered and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Makes 5 or 6 servings.

NOTE: Double-concentrated tomato paste comes in a tube and can be found in the Italian section of most supermarkets.

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Familiar soups comfort, both away and at home


Although the Rogue Valley broiled under a blanket of smoke a little more than a week ago, I expected cooler temperatures in Washington’s San Juan Islands, where my husband, Will, and I spent last week camping.

Colder climes were just one reason to bring homemade soup for a couple of our campground meals. The other reason, of course, is that hearty soups like ham and bean just taste like home. And as the rain tapped out a tune on the roof of our camper van, I’d never been so thankful that I put the remains of our Easter ham to good use rather than discarding the bone.

We could have brought canned soup of course, but the quart-sized containers pulled from our freezer maintained the cooler’s temperature for a couple days with only a little additional ice to help. The only soup snafu: I brought pumpkin-leek (definitely not Will’s favorite) instead of the minestrone I had planned to thicken with a little cooked orzo.

So with a couple of garden zucchinis left over from our trip and greeted with wintertime weather when we returned home yesterday, I had minestrone on the brain. My version combines pork sausage, onions, carrots, celery, zucchini and green beans with canned tomatoes and either pasta or canned cannellini beans. I also had a Parmesan rind saved up for just such a purpose.

It was the perfect meal to set simmering on the stove while we put away camping gear and tidied up the house. Will briefly lobbied for chili but didn’t argue once the soup was served with garlic toast and a hearty grating of Parmesan on top.

But I have a feeling that if this chill persists, chili isn’t far behind. If you’re thinking along the same lines, here’s a recipe similar to one I’ve often prepared with beef sirloin or other types of steak. I do put black beans in chili but tend to favor a combination of pinto, kidneys and black-eyes peas, too, some of which could be substituted in this recipe courtesy of The Washington Post. It’s ready in 40 minutes.

Sirloin and Black Bean Chili

1 1/2 pounds sirloin steak (can be in 2 or 3 pieces)

4 to 6 teaspoons chili powder, divided

1 teaspoon ground cumin, divided

1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 medium sweet onion

1 medium green bell pepper

2 medium cloves garlic

1 small jalapeno pepper

5 or 6 ripe tomatoes

3 1/2 to 4 cups canned black beans (from two 15-ounce cans), preferably Eden brand

1 tablespoon olive oil

Leaves from 6 to 8 stems cilantro

Trim off and discard any excess fat from the steak.

Combine 1 teaspoon of the chili powder, 1/2 teaspoon of the cumin and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt in a small bowl; rub mixture into both sides of steak.

Melt the butter in a large skillet over high heat (and turn on your exhaust fan). Sear steak for 2 minutes on each side, then reduce heat to medium and cook for 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Meanwhile, cut the onion and bell pepper into small dice. Mince the garlic and jalapeno pepper, discarding jalapeno stem and seeds. Cut the tomatoes into 1/2- to 3/4-inch pieces; seed, if desired. Drain and rinse the black beans.

Add the oil to skillet used to cook steak; heat over high heat. Add diced onion, garlic and peppers; cook for 3 minutes, stirring constantly, then add tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they begin to release their juices. Add 1/2 cup water and return to a boil, then reduce heat to medium and add remaining 3 to 5 teaspoons of chili powder (to taste), remaining 1/2 teaspoon of cumin and drained beans; mix well.

While chili is cooking, coarsely chop the cilantro.

Cook chili for 15 to 17 minutes, until it has darkened and vegetables have softened. Then place large pieces of cooked steak in chili (to warm meat through). Cook undisturbed for 3 minutes, then turn off heat. Transfer steak to a cutting board. Cut into thin slices.

Add cilantro to chili; taste, and adjust seasoning as needed, adding remaining salt if desired. Divide among individual bowls; fan slices of steak over each portion. Serve hot with baked flour tortilla triangles or warm corn bread.

Makes 4 servings.

— Recipe adapted by The Washington Post from “The Everything Soup, Stew & Chili Cookbook,” by Belinda Huli.

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Move over tofu; tempeh’s the whole soy food

I was skeptical, too. That’s why I did a little bit of research before writing this week’s A la Carte story on tempeh.

I knew it was a soy food. I knew that it underwent some sort of fermentation process. But the idea that I should eat tempeh instead of tofu never occurred to me.

I don’t love tofu, but I do find it palatable after crisping in a bit of oil. I eat bean curd probably about once a week in a stir-fry, Asian noodle dish or soup. But I had to laugh when Lorie Fleischman, aka Comet, who is teaching Tuesday’s class on tempeh said that people often don’t like tofu because it’s “spongy and weird.” Seeing as she mentioned it, it is spongy and weird.

Then I started talking to Mary Shaw, culinary educator at Ashland Food Co-op. As soon as I heard the words “whole food,” I began warming up to tempeh. I’ve been trying to eat a basically whole-foods diet for the past decade or so, and tempeh leaves all the soybean’s edible parts intact, boosting fiber, protein and other nutrients.

Then I tasted the tempeh Mary had prepared for our photo shoot by braising in tamari sauce and sherry vinegar. I’d had lunch, so I couldn’t have been that hungry, but I couldn’t stop eating it. It was salty, savory, nutty and toothsome all at once. My next trip to the grocery store included a purchase of this Indonesian staple.

I tried tempeh last night in a stir-fry, basically browning it in my wok and then braising with a mixture of ponzu and Chinese black vinegar. To the stir-fry, I added Japanese eggplants and garden green beans. The tempeh wasn’t quite as good as Mary’s. I think I still need to work out my flavor combinations, but I was encouraged.

If you’re keen to try tempeh, it’s pretty much available at any grocery store. And then get some ideas for cooking it at this Tuesday’s Co-op class.

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Homemade condiments go far in Eat Local Challenge

While Eat Local Challenge “purist” Sooney Viani was celebrating victory this weekend, I was feeling much less enthusiastic about my efforts, as previous posts have indicated.

Part of that disappointment comes from realizing that despite all my planning for delicious, wholesome, totally local meals, I still ate nonlocal foods without even realizing it. I’ve written a bit on the past about the importance of conscious eating, both for better health and sheer enjoyment of one’s food. Yet I partake in my fair share of unconscious eating, even during the past week’s Eat Local challenge, which ended Sunday.

I managed to resist the seaweed snacks (product of Korea) hidden in my desk all week but fell victim to kiwi berries grown in Washington that I’d wanted to try since reading about them. Before I knew it, they were in my mouth. Ditto with samples from Costco. My husband stopped me before I could buy a Starbucks frappuccino. You get the idea.

Not that I didn’t willfully engage in plenty of nonlocal foods apart from Friday’s sushi. Thursday night’s gathering of co-workers featured pate and Brie purchased from a local business but otherwise of obscure origins. My choice was to eat it or go hungry after work until about 8 p.m. By the time the weekend rolled around, I gave little thought to a Kozy Shack flan (from New York) or a serving of California ice cream after dinner.

The most sinister slips by far are the myriad sauces, condiments and other flavorings we all have in our refrigerators. Think you’ll make a nice, local stir-fry with in-season green beans, eggplant and some local pork? It’s all good until you wonder how to flavor the dish and realize you really want that oyster sauce imported from Thailand. Although I do have some local jams and even mustard on hand, the multicolored jars in my fridge, from mayonnaise to anchovy paste, would likely paint a global portrait.

But that’s not an excuse to purchase all your condiments. Every good gardener should be stocked up on pesto by now (even if you have to go elsewhere for half the ingredients). If you grow peppers and can’t use them up fast enough while still fresh, there’s nothing simpler than roasting them and pureeing with a little vinegar and maybe brown sugar, depending on desired heat, for a multi-purpose flavoring.

I did this a couple weeks back and used the sauce in several Eat Local meals: pizza, stir-fry (with oyster sauce), flatbread with garden veggies and finally eggplant, zucchini and lamb lasagna. The sauce nicely thinned my goat cheese to a spreadable consistency between layers of Wolf Creek Pasta Co. lasagna sheets and added depth of flavor to the whole dish.

Because peppers will be in high season for a few weeks yet, consider preserving some for quick additions of flavor to numerous dishes. The following chutney is a similar concept using roasted peppers and vinegar. You could puree it for a spreadable sauce or leave it chunky like caponata.

Peperonata

8 gypsy peppers (about 2 1/2 pounds total; see note)

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for roasting the peppers

Kosher salt, to taste 

2 tablespoons salt-packed capers, soaked in cold water for 30 minutes

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1/2 red onion, cut into small dice (about 1 cup)

1/2 fennel bulb, cored and cut into small dice

1/2 teaspoon crushed red-pepper flakes

2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar

Preheat oven to 400 F.

Toss the peppers in a large bowl with a dash of oil and a pinch of salt, coating them evenly, and arrange them in a single layer on a baking sheet. Roast peppers for 20 to 30 minutes, turning them once about halfway through cooking, or until their skins have started to blister and pull away from flesh. Transfer peppers to a large bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap to steam.

When peppers are cool enough to handle, peel them; skins should slide off. Tear peppers into roughly equal strips about 1/2-inch wide, discarding stems, seeds and membranes.

Heat the 1/4 cup of oil in a large skillet over medium heat.

Drain the capers, squeezing out any excess moisture, and use paper towels to pat them dry. Add them to hot oil and fry for 3 or 4 minutes or until they bloom and start to become crisp. Add the tomato paste (be careful of splatters) and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes or until it darkens in color. Add the onion, fennel, crushed red pepper flakes and 1/2 teaspoon of salt; cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until onion and fennel are tender.

Add the vinegar and use a spatula to dislodge any browned bits from skillet’s bottom, then add peppers. Cook for a few minutes, stirring, then taste for seasoning, adding salt or vinegar as needed.

Serve peppers warm or at room temperature on top of crostini or let them cool, then refrigerate in a tightly covered container for up to 2 weeks.

Makes about 4 cups.

NOTE: Gypsy peppers are a medium, tapered variety. If you can’t find them, a combination of red, orange and yellow bell peppers can be used instead.

— Recipe adapted by The Washington Post from “A16 Food+Wine,” by Nate Appleman and Shelley Lindgren.

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    Sarah Lemon

    lemons
    Sarah Lemon whips up stories on the Rogue Valley’s growing food scene with an enthusiasm that rivals her love of cooking. Her blog mixes culinary musings and milestones with tips and recipes you won’t find in the Mail Tribune’s weekly A la ... Read Full
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