Pomegranate molasses makes sweet-tart sauces

I’ve made it a habit for the past couple of years to purchase a lamb from a local rancher and 4-H adviser. The meat, touted in a previous post, is top-notch and, in the end, cheaper per pound than buying cuts from the supermarket.

It’s too bad that my husband, Will, doesn’t share my fondness for lamb. But considering how full our freezer has become, I’m always trying to come up with ways to make it more palatable, namely by assuaging that flavor most people call “lamby.” I just call it distinctive and delicious.

One of those attempts led me to the first recipe I’m posting below, which The Los Angeles Times ran about a year ago for Passover. I found pomegranate molasses at Abu’s Oasis Deli, a Middle Eastern/Mediterranean eatery in Grants Pass that doubles as a market for exotic ingredients used in many of the dishes.

Bottled by Cortas, a brand commonly attached to orange blossom and rose waters, pomegranate molasses is a thick and syrupy reduction of pomegranate juice or seeds. A key condiment in Middle Eastern cuisine, it adds a sweet-tart, complex flavor to marinades and sauces.

Experts say the flavor of pomegranate molasses can vary widely by brand. Although I followed the recipe below, I found the sauce a little sour for my taste. Indeed, Cortas’ Web site refers to “concentrated juice of sour pomegranates.”

Last week, I decided to make a sweeter glaze from pomegranate molasses for lamb “riblets.” I mixed about 1/3 cup pomegranate molasses with about 1/4 cup fresh squeezed tangerine juice, a tablespoon each of tamari sauce and brown sugar and about 1/2 tablespoon each of Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces.

After braising the riblet racks for about two hours in the Crock-Pot, I painted them with the glaze and, to guarantee their sticky sweetness, crumbled some brown sugar on top of each before transferring them to a 350-degree oven for about 25 minutes.

Will was wowed enough that I felt encouraged to try pomegranate molasses again, perhaps in a dish based on the second recipe below. You can make your own molasses — even kosher for Passover — by simmering pomegranate juice until syrupy (reduced by about half).

See more cooking ideas for Passover, Easter and other seasonal celebrations at the newspaper’s updated holiday entertaining page.

Pomegranate Braised Lamb

Duck Breast With Pomegranate Glaze

2/3 cup pomegranate molasses

2/3 cup red-wine vinegar

1/4 cup honey

2 cups homemade or store-bought chicken stock or broth, reduced to 1/2 cup

2 medium oranges

4 boneless, skin-on duck breasts (about 7 ounces each)

Kosher salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1 large bulb fennel, cored and cut into 1/4-inch dice (about 2 1/2 cups)

1/2 cup pomegranate seeds, for garnish (optional)

Combine the pomegranate molasses and vinegar in a small saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium and add the honey; mix well. Cook for 12 to 15 minutes, until mixture has reduced by about half (about 2/3 cup). Remove from heat.

Transfer half of glaze (1/3 cup) to a separate small saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the reduced stock or broth and stir to combine; keep warm.

To prepare the oranges, use a sharp knife to cut off top and bottom of both oranges; stand each orange on end. Working vertically around oranges, one at a time, use a sharp paring or serrated knife to cut away peel and white pith. Working over a bowl, slice between membranes to release orange segments, letting them drop into bowl. Discard peel, white pith and membranes (strain and save juice for another use, if desired). Transfer segments to a separate small bowl and set aside.

Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Use a knife to lightly score skin on the duck breasts in a crosshatch pattern; do not cut through to flesh. Season both sides of duck with the salt and pepper to taste. Place skin-side down in hot skillet. (You may need to use 2 pans or do this in batches.) Cook for 7 to 8 minutes, until nicely browned, then turn duck over and cook for 3 to 4 minutes on second side (for medium-rare).

Brush duck breasts generously on both sides with reserved 1/3 cup pomegranate molasses-vinegar glaze (there may be glaze left over); tent loosely with aluminum foil and let rest for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the olive oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the fennel and stir to coat evenly; reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes (without browning). Season with salt and pepper to taste; add reserved orange segments. Stir gently until just heated through.

Return pomegranate glaze-stock/broth mixture to medium-low heat; when it is heated through, add remaining tablespoon of butter, stirring to combine. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until sauce coats back of a spoon. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, as needed.

When ready to serve, cut duck breasts into quarter-inch slices; fan slices on individual plates and surround them with fennel and orange sections. Drizzle sauce over duck. If desired, sprinkle with the pomegranate seeds. Serve hot or warm with quinoa or mashed potatoes.

Makes 4 servings.