Food writers know that penning the word “vegan” more often than not spells “bland,” “boring” or just plain “bizarre” for many readers.
Although I haven’t written many stories geared specifically toward vegans, it’s become apparent over the past few years that more people are choosing vegan food ways for reasons that have nothing to do with an ideology or ethics as they relate to animals. Blame dairy-intolerance, high cholesterol, obesity or any number of other health reasons behind a vegan diet’s appeal.
Yet we remain a cynical bunch here at the newspaper, prone to making light (at least in our conversations) of anything perceived to be on the fringe despite the disproportionate number of stories that seem to crop up outside the perimeters of “normal.” That’s how I came by a sample of Parma! Vegan Parmesan. No one else was willing to try the nut-yeast-salt concoction hailing from — surprise! — not Ashland but staid, ol’ Central Point. Shannon Schnibbe started making the condiment five years ago to combat allergies with diet instead of medication.
Admittedly, a review of Parma! is long overdo. The newspaper ran a story on this homegrown business late last year, and a couple of containers started circulating the newsroom, eventually winding up at my desk although I had nothing to do with the story by freelance writer Buffy Pollock.
I tried a few sprinkles out of hand and found the flavor somewhat strange. More specifically, I just wasn’t sure how to use it in my kitchen since I lack any sort of powerful motivation to eat a product that for most fans helps solve a major dietary quandary.
So Parma! languished in one of my desk drawers until I was faced with throwing it out during my spring cleaning. In that moment, I wondered if Parma! could pass for the fake Parmesan (that stuff in the green can) that I loved on popcorn as a kid. I’d already tried real Parmesan grated on popcorn, but the cheese didn’t stick to the popcorn enough to really taste.
I took Parma! home to my fridge, where it languished for another month or so until the precise craving struck last night for flavored popcorn. In my defense I’d played a punishing round of volleyball until 10 p.m. and, while starving, lacked the energy to prepare real food.
And wouldn’t you know it? Parma! not only proved a worthy substitute for powdered Parmesan, it was better in a more intensely salty, fermented way. It contains no MSG, but, if I didn’t have the label in front of me, would have guessed otherwise because I couldn’t stop eating it. The original flavor’s only ingredients are raw, organic walnuts, nutritional yeast, Celtic sea salt and “love.” There’s also a chipotle-cayenne version.
Indeed, local customers of Schnibbe’s Eat in the Raw told Pollock they were addicted to the stuff. Containing just 25 calories, 1.5 grams of fat and 25 milligrams of sodium per tablespoon, Parma! is a healthful addiction, at least. Compare that with 100 calories and 7 grams of fat per tablespoon of butter and 2,300 milligrams of sodium in a mere teaspoon of salt. How many of us use more on a bowl of popcorn?
Packaged in 3.5-ounce spice jars, Parma! can be purchased online and at Food 4 Less in Medford, Tark’s in Talent and Ashland Food Co-op, Shop ‘N’ Kart and Market of Choice in Ashland. Schnibbe also has accounts with Whole Foods and New Seasons markets, co-ops and health-food stores in more than 30 states. Try it and add your review here.
