Homemade condiments go far in Eat Local Challenge

Part of that disappointment comes from realizing that despite all my planning for delicious, wholesome, totally local meals, I still ate nonlocal foods without even realizing it. I’ve written a bit on the past about the importance of conscious eating, both for better health and sheer enjoyment of one’s food. Yet I partake in my fair share of unconscious eating, even during the past week’s Eat Local challenge, which ended Sunday.

I managed to resist the seaweed snacks (product of Korea) hidden in my desk all week but fell victim to kiwi berries grown in Washington that I’d wanted to try since reading about them. Before I knew it, they were in my mouth. Ditto with samples from Costco. My husband stopped me before I could buy a Starbucks frappuccino. You get the idea.

Not that I didn’t willfully engage in plenty of nonlocal foods apart from Friday’s sushi. Thursday night’s gathering of co-workers featured pate and Brie purchased from a local business but otherwise of obscure origins. My choice was to eat it or go hungry after work until about 8 p.m. By the time the weekend rolled around, I gave little thought to a Kozy Shack flan (from New York) or a serving of California ice cream after dinner.

The most sinister slips by far are the myriad sauces, condiments and other flavorings we all have in our refrigerators. Think you’ll make a nice, local stir-fry with in-season green beans, eggplant and some local pork? It’s all good until you wonder how to flavor the dish and realize you really want that oyster sauce imported from Thailand. Although I do have some local jams and even mustard on hand, the multicolored jars in my fridge, from mayonnaise to anchovy paste, would likely paint a global portrait.

But that’s not an excuse to purchase all your condiments. Every good gardener should be stocked up on pesto by now (even if you have to go elsewhere for half the ingredients). If you grow peppers and can’t use them up fast enough while still fresh, there’s nothing simpler than roasting them and pureeing with a little vinegar and maybe brown sugar, depending on desired heat, for a multi-purpose flavoring.

I did this a couple weeks back and used the sauce in several Eat Local meals: pizza, stir-fry (with oyster sauce), flatbread with garden veggies and finally eggplant, zucchini and lamb lasagna. The sauce nicely thinned my goat cheese to a spreadable consistency between layers of Wolf Creek Pasta Co. lasagna sheets and added depth of flavor to the whole dish.

Because peppers will be in high season for a few weeks yet, consider preserving some for quick additions of flavor to numerous dishes. The following chutney is a similar concept using roasted peppers and vinegar. You could puree it for a spreadable sauce or leave it chunky like caponata.

Peperonata

8 gypsy peppers (about 2 1/2 pounds total; see note)

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for roasting the peppers

Kosher salt, to taste 

2 tablespoons salt-packed capers, soaked in cold water for 30 minutes

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1/2 red onion, cut into small dice (about 1 cup)

1/2 fennel bulb, cored and cut into small dice

1/2 teaspoon crushed red-pepper flakes

2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar

Preheat oven to 400 F.

Toss the peppers in a large bowl with a dash of oil and a pinch of salt, coating them evenly, and arrange them in a single layer on a baking sheet. Roast peppers for 20 to 30 minutes, turning them once about halfway through cooking, or until their skins have started to blister and pull away from flesh. Transfer peppers to a large bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap to steam.

When peppers are cool enough to handle, peel them; skins should slide off. Tear peppers into roughly equal strips about 1/2-inch wide, discarding stems, seeds and membranes.

Heat the 1/4 cup of oil in a large skillet over medium heat.

Drain the capers, squeezing out any excess moisture, and use paper towels to pat them dry. Add them to hot oil and fry for 3 or 4 minutes or until they bloom and start to become crisp. Add the tomato paste (be careful of splatters) and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes or until it darkens in color. Add the onion, fennel, crushed red pepper flakes and 1/2 teaspoon of salt; cook for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until onion and fennel are tender.

Add the vinegar and use a spatula to dislodge any browned bits from skillet’s bottom, then add peppers. Cook for a few minutes, stirring, then taste for seasoning, adding salt or vinegar as needed.

Serve peppers warm or at room temperature on top of crostini or let them cool, then refrigerate in a tightly covered container for up to 2 weeks.

Makes about 4 cups.

NOTE: Gypsy peppers are a medium, tapered variety. If you can’t find them, a combination of red, orange and yellow bell peppers can be used instead.

— Recipe adapted by The Washington Post from “A16 Food+Wine,” by Nate Appleman and Shelley Lindgren.