Walnuts, figs are fleeting fall delights

When its fruit is blackened and turning to mush on the ground, a backyard walnut tree doesn’t seem like such a boon.

But in a year such as this when the husk-fly infestation has been minimal and rain has yet to bring the leaves and fruit down in one fell swoop, harvesting walnuts is a bit like an Easter egg hunt, only in autumn.

I noticed the first few walnuts, beautifully brown and dry, littering the ground yesterday when I was out picking garden greens for a salad. Plans had already been laid for a salad with mission figs, gorgonzola cheese and walnuts — the store-bought ones in my freezer. But now — rejoice! — I had walnuts fresh off the tree to enjoy.

The discovery was thrilling since last year had failed to produce a harvest. I gathered from the enormous quantity of smashed shells littering the ground that squirrels beat us to all the nuts. This year, I may have to present my mother-in-law’s new chocolate Lab with some extra-special treats for keeping the pilferers away.

Happily, my mother-in-law, herself, lets me have all the walnuts I want from the tree. After one year’s bumper crop when we both roasted walnuts, she commented that she didn’t care for the “fishy” taste of these. I simply take it as an indicator that more of the omega fatty acids must be intact. Once I freed them from the shell, roasting the nuts quickly in a medium-hot pan brought out the characteristic rich, slightly tannic flavor.

It was the perfect complement to gorgonzola-stuffed figs wrapped in a little prosciutto and oven-roasted for about 10 minutes. On top of arugula and assorted lettuces and dressed with a fig-walnut vinaigrette I purchased at Ashland’s Shop ’N‘ Kart, the components made for a filling meal with a little garlic toast.

Tonight will see me drying the rest in a low-temperature oven so they’ll keep through the winter. Local walnut purveyor Jeff Anderson advises against heating walnuts to temperatures in excess of 115 degrees. Many walnuts found in stores have scorched and bitter spots due to damaging heat, he says. Look for walnuts soon at the Rogue Valley Growers and Crafters Market.

Here’s a 15-minute recipe for a salad similar to mine that demonstrates how easy it is to make frico, or crisps from grated, hard Italian cheeses like Parmesan. Figs’ short season should extend through this month. Enjoy them while you can. 
 

Roasted Fig Salad With Crisped Cheese

1 large clove garlic

Pinch Maldon sea salt, plus more to taste

2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar or fig vinegar

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

Freshly ground black pepper

4 1/2 ounces finely grated aged pecorino Romano cheese (may substitute Parmigiano-Reggiano)

12 small ripe black mission figs (or 8 large figs)

2 teaspoons light-brown sugar (optional)

3 to 4 ounces salad greens, such as watercress, Boston or frisee lettuces

1/2 cup basil leaves

1/2 cup chervil leaves

3/4 cup walnut halves (optional)

Preheat oven to 400 F. Have ready a large rimmed baking sheet.

Smash and peel the garlic. Use a chef’s knife and a little salt to mash garlic clove into a paste on your cutting board. Transfer to a small container and add the vinegar and oil to form a dressing. Taste and season with black pepper and salt as needed.

Create about 8 small piles of the grated cheese (about 1/2 tablespoon’s worth each), spaced at least 2 inches apart on your baking sheet. Flatten slightly and bake on middle oven rack for 4 to 5 minutes or until lightly golden, especially on edges. Use a thin spatula to transfer cheese to a plate before disks cool into crisps. (Keep oven at 400 F.)

Wash the figs, then cut them in half lengthwise. Place them cut sides up on baking sheet that was used to make cheese crisps (there should be a little oily residue from cheese that will keep the figs from sticking). Sprinkle figs with the brown sugar, if desired, and bake/roast for 5 to 6 minutes, until fruit has softened and sugar has melted.

While figs are in oven, wash and dry the salad greens; tear the herbs into small pieces. Combine salad greens and herbs in a large mixing bowl. Drizzle lightly with dressing and toss gently to mix well. Divide among individual plates, then add the walnuts, if desired, and cheese crisps. Divide figs evenly among plates, placing them atop salad greens; drizzle with a little olive oil. Serve with warmed corn bread or focaccia while figs are warm.

Makes 4 servings.