Cosmic forces have transpired this year to align Chinese New Year and Valentine’s Day, apparently a unique coincidence by modern reckoning.
The event is likely to pass as mere curiosity for most, given the distance between millennia of Chinese civilization and the Western mutation of Valentine’s Day from Catholic feast day honoring early Christian martyrs to marketing ploy for greeting-card and floral companies. But this strange coupling is giving chefs and foodies some interesting opportunities this weekend, according to recent news stories.
It just so happens the color red characterizes both celebrations. In the case of Valentine’s Day, red represents love and passion while the Chinese have long regarded it as the symbol of happiness and good fortune. Either way you look at it, red makes a striking culinary statement, so it’s no wonder restaurants are looking for ways to capitalize on the dual occasions.
For some, pomegranate molasses is the ingredient of choice, one I’ve seen touted in several new recipes. As an added bonus, the fruit itself symbolizes fertility because of its many seeds.
Bottled by Cortas, a brand commonly attached to orange-blossom and rose waters, pomegranate molasses is a thick and syrupy reduction of pomegranate juice or seeds. A key condiment in Middle Eastern cuisine, it adds a sweet-tart, complex flavor to marinades and sauces.
I’ve used pomegranate molasses several times in the past year and covered my results in a previous post. Pomegranate molasses has only become more common since I purchased it at Abu’s Oasis Deli, a Middle Eastern/Mediterranean eatery in Grants Pass that doubles as a market for exotic ingredients used in many of its dishes. You may be able to find pomegranate molasses in your favorite grocery store. Or make your own by simmering pomegranate juice until syrupy (reduced by about half).
Experts say the flavor of pomegranate molasses can vary widely by brand. I find Cortas’ a little sour for my tastes and have added brown sugar to my preparations. Try it in the following recipes courtesy of McClatchy News Service.
Hoisin-Pomegranate-Glazed Duck Breast
2 duck breasts, fat trimmed, skin scored
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup hoisin sauce
1⁄4 cup pomegranate molasses
1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced
1 head garlic, finely chopped
1 pomegranate, seeded, for garnish
Chopped chives, for garnish
Season the duck with the salt and pepper. Cook, skin-side down, in a skillet over medium-low heat until skin is browned and crispy, 20 to 25 minutes. Reserve duck fat for later use. Cool duck to room temperature.
Combine the hoisin sauce, pomegranate molasses, green onions and garlic in a nonreactive baking dish just large enough to hold duck. Add duck, turning to coat. Marinate, covered, in refrigerator for at least 1 hour.
Remove duck from marinade; cook and sear meat-side down over medium-low heat until medium-rare, 4 to 6 minutes. Turn; cook until duck’s skin is crispy, about 2 minutes. Remove to a cutting board to rest, skin-side up, 5 minutes. Slice each duck breast; fan onto plates. Garnish with the pomegranate seeds and chives.
Makes 2 servings.
Chicken Paillards With Avocado-Pomegranate Salsa
4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (4 to 6 ounces each)
1⁄4 cup fresh lemon juice
5 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 tablespoon, plus 1 teaspoon pomegranate molasses, divided
1 1⁄4 teaspoons kosher salt, divided
1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 large lemon
Seeds from 1⁄2 medium pomegranate (see note)
3 small green onions, thinly sliced
2 medium firm-ripe avocados, pitted, peeled and cut into 1⁄4-inch dice
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon finely minced, seeded jalapeno
Pound each of the chicken breasts between pieces of plastic wrap until about 1⁄8 inch thick. Or, if using large chicken breasts, cut them in half horizontally so you have 2 thin, even pieces. In a shallow bowl, stir in the lemon juice, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, 1 tablespoon of the pomegranate molasses, 3⁄4 teaspoon of the salt and the pepper. Add chicken, turn to coat well, and cover and refrigerate for at least 20 minutes and up to 1 hour.
To make salsa, finely grate zest from the lemon and then squeeze out 1 tablespoon juice. Place the pomegranate seeds, discarding any pith, into a bowl. Add lemon zest and juice, the green onions, avocado, parsley, jalapeno, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, remaining 1 teaspoon pomegranate molasses and 1⁄2 teaspoon salt. Fold gently with a rubber spatula. Season to taste with additional salt.
To cook chicken, Heat 1⁄2 tablespoon olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add 2 chicken breasts and cook until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Flip and cook until lightly browned on the other side and cooked through, about 3 minutes more. Transfer chicken to a plate and cover to keep it warm. Repeat with the remaining 1⁄2 tablespoon oil and 2 chicken breasts. Serve chicken with salsa spooned over top.
Makes 4 servings.
NOTE: To remove seeds from a pomegranate, cut 1⁄4 inch off top. Score pomegranate on all sides. Place it in a bowl of water and pull apart. Push seeds out using your fingers. White pith floats to top and seeds sink. Strain out seeds.
— Recipe adapted by the Detroit Free Press from Fine Cooking magazine February/March issue.
Pomegranate-Glazed Salmon With Mejadra
1⁄2 cup dried lentils
1⁄2 cup long-grain rice
Small pinch saffron threads
Sea salt, to taste
Fresh black pepper, to taste
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 tablespoons minced garlic
2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
2 tablespoons minced jalapeno pepper
4 (6-ounce) skinless salmon fillets
1⁄4 cup pomegranate molasses
In a saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the lentils and just enough water to cover by an inch to a boil. Cook until just tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and set aside.
In another saucepan, bring the rice, saffron, 1 cup water and a pinch salt to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer until rice is tender and nearly all liquid has been absorbed, 15 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand, covered, for 5 minutes.
Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the garlic, ginger and jalapeno and cook until tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Add cooked lentils and rice to pan, tossing to mix. Season with the salt and pepper. Keep warm.
Preheat oven to 400 F. Heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a large, oven-proof saute pan, preferably nonstick, over high heat. Season the fish with salt and pepper on both sides and, when oil is hot, add it to pan. Cook until bottom has a toasted, brown crust, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn over and brush fillets with a generous amount of the molasses.
Transfer pan to oven and cook until fish is opaque throughout when prodded with tip of a knife, about 4 minutes.
Divide lentils and rice among 4 warm plates, top with a salmon fillet, and serve immediately.
Makes 4 servings.
— Recipe from “Wine Bar Food: Mediterranean Flavors to Crave with Wines to Match,” by Cathy and Tony Mantuano (Clarkson Potter, $27.50).
