Raw milk ‘owners’ leave no cheese for the masses

Nationwide, debates about raw milk rage, with laws varying state to state and a federal lawsuit pending against the Food and Drug Administration.

Last week, interest reached new heights locally with news that state-sanctioned Siskiyou Crest Goat Dairy was rejecting its own license for a grass-roots alternative. Its plan to sign up “owners” of its goat herd essentially makes a black-market commodity legal for consumption.

“Nobody could buy our milk legally,” said Siskiyou Crest owner Mookie Moss.

Much more is at stake, however, namely Siskiyou Crest’s main source of income: soft goat cheeses it has produced for retail and wholesale since 2007. Its license only good through Tuesday, Siskiyou Crest’s brand no longer will be sold at Ashland Food Co-op and local farmers markets or featured on restaurant menus, said Moss. Cheese now will be available only to herd-share owners, explained in an Aug. 24 Mail Tribune story. Cheese-only shares are available, said Moss.

More murky is the status of cheeses still in the ripening process. Under its license, Siskiyou Crest could legally sell some batches of raw, aged sharp cheddar and Gouda starting this week. Moss said he is considering offering samples of the cheeses for at least one more week at the Rogue Valley Growers & Crafters Market while canvassing for more herd-share owners. 

“As far as we know that’s not illegal,” Moss said of plying samples.

Addressing the issue of raw milk in a previous post, I couldn’t help but wonder if last Monday’s move was purposefully aligned with recent news of recalls at Umpqua Dairy. Moss insists it wasn’t and that Siskiyou Crest had set the date of its announcement back in May after owners discussed it for more than a year.

“I think it was positive at the end of the day.”

Moss admitted that his message could be viewed as reactionary. The true aim, he said, is to provide a safe, healthful food rather than participating in a government program he doesn’t believe in. To find out more, look for Siskiyou Crest Tuesday at the Ashland Armory, Thursday at the Medford Armory and Saturday in downtown Ashland.

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    Sarah Lemon

    Sarah Lemon covers the Rogue Valley’s food scene with an enthusiasm that rivals her love of cooking. Her blog mixes culinary musings and milestones with tips and recipes you won’t find in the Mail Tribune’s weekly A la Carte section. When ... Read Full
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