It’s time for slaws, at least if you ascribe to the philosophy of seasonal eating.
Cabbage, as one of my first Season to Taste columns noted, is available from local farmers even in the depths of winter. That column suggested using cabbage in pad thai, but slaw would not be put off another year, particularly with little but cilantro for inspiration in my sad winter garden.
Out of deference to my husband’s tastes, I skipped curry in a slaw to serve with salmon burgers earlier this week. Instead, I saved a few seasoning steps and sweetened the dish by combining a bit of mayonnaise and the apple vinaigrette featured with a recent column by Jan Roberts-Dominguez. Of course, I couldn’t help but adapt the vinaigrette recipe a bit, substituting fresh sage for the rosemary and onion and garlic for the shallot. I loved the result, though, and even stirred it into a wild-rice pilaf for richness.
To the cabbage slaw, I added chopped cilantro and green onion, as well as some powdered, dried chilies from the garden of HomeLife editor Dave Smigelski. The apple flavor wasn’t pronounced but could be alongside the celery root, celery and bell pepper in the recipe accompanying last week’s A la Carte story on Fuji apples. Lacking mayonnaise, that slaw also would lack creaminess, which some of Jan’s vinaigrette could remedy.
With a small pile of apples from the tree in my yard withering away, I tripled the recipe and plan on freezing it in portions, so I can drizzle it on salads throughout the winter and early spring. It also doubles as a sauce for meats, as Jan explained. I used it as spread on a grilled-cheese sandwich, too.