Farewell to a friendly face and his famous pasta

I’m probably not the only person wishing the farmer’s market wasn’t still more than a month off despite unseasonably warm weather.

There’s one face that will be missing, though, when this year’s Rogue Valley Growers and Crafters Market opens in Medford March 18, in Ashland March 16. “Pasta” Dave Deichler died a couple weeks ago, shocking family, friends and market fans.

Just 59 years old, Dave died of natural causes, peacefully in his sleep, a friend said. The state medical examiner’s office declined to conduct an autopsy after reviewing Dave’s medical records with Veterans Affairs. His obituary appeared Thursday in the Mail Tribune.

Like many market customers, I imagine, I didn’t know Dave well, but spying his smiling face next to Fry Family Farm’s stall was usually the highlight of my trip to Medford’s Armory. And, of course, that pasta was worth coming back for every week. He’d even save a package for me if I had to run to the bank for a little extra cash.

But with its cost of $4.50 for a 1-pound package, Dave’s pasta, I felt, was always fairly priced, particularly when one considers that he used organic flour and eggs from cage-free, vegetarian hens. The package easily would feed four people, and I often made several pasta variations from it through the week.

The former head chef for Wild River Brewing and Pizza Co., Dave was never short on enthusiasm for talking over customers’ plans for his pasta. One of my chief joys, as Dave knew, was cutting his lasagna sheets into my own paperdelle or using them to make ravioli with my own garden-fresh ingredients.

Dave also was the only local source I’d ever found for fresh pasta made from spelt, a wheat alternative. And although spelt flour is many times more expensive than wheat, Dave never charged more for it. He simply spread the cost among his other pastas — angel hair, linguini, fettucini, rotelli and lasagna — and designated one style for spelt weekly from the small batches he personally produced at the Wolf Creek Community Center kitchen, where reporter Sanne Specht interviewed him for a story more than two years ago.

Dave made hundreds of pounds of pasta every week for about a decade, but it’s unlikely his death could be blamed on working too much. It was obvious even from our brief conversations that Dave knew how to enjoy life and where to draw the line.

His wholesale accounts included just a handful; he wasn’t making pasta for grocery stores, although several local restaurants relied on it. Dave never joined the new farmers market at Hillcrest Orchard, nor the Saturday growers market in Ashland. It wasn’t unusual for him to skip a week of markets during the height of summer and make for the coast. While Dave’s customers missed him, we could hardly blame him.

A celebration of Dave’s life is planned for Feb. 20 in Wolf Creek. If I get the go-ahead from organizers, I will post additional details. Hull & Hull Funeral Directors of Grants Pass is handling arrangements and has posted a more detailed obituary.

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Wake up taste buds with Moroccan-spiced oats

It may sound strange that my weekend breakfast treat is a bowl of oatmeal.

Sure, I like egg dishes as much as the next person. But after a week of usually too many wheat-based foods, some other whole grain is a welcome change. And this isn’t just any old bowl of oatmeal.

I exclusively use steel-cut oats, scooped from the bulk bin at Food 4 Less. The texture is far more toothsome than standard rolled oats, which to me always yield a texture like wallpaper paste. The downside of the steel-cut kind is that they take about 30 minutes to cook, hence my preference for making them on the weekend.

I always add some dried fruit, usually Zante currants or golden raisins and then a few nuts, preferably walnuts from my own tree or, in a pinch, almonds. Some flaxseed meal is a must, and a tablespoon of half-in-half keeps the mixture creamy and rich. There’s nothing worse than drowning oatmeal in a puddle of skim milk, which dilutes all the other flavors.

Lately, though, this formula has become a little too predictable, even when it’s eaten just once a week. On a recent visit to Ashland’s Morning Glory restaurant, I was reminded of their beloved Moroccan oatmeal, which is so popular that they sell the dry mix of oats, fruit and spices so customers can make it at home. But rather than pay $7.50 for the package, I was determined to make my own for mere pennies, with the inclusion of steel-cut oats rather than rolled, no less.

I know from the menu that the cereal contains dates and apricots. And although spices are not specified, it appears from the color that turmeric is among them. Cinnamon, I know, is heavily used in Moroccan cuisine, and cardamom and ground ginger would add extra zing.

After making this several times, I’m convinced I’ve hit on a winning combination, one that wakes up the taste buds with unexpected breakfast flavors.

Start the oatmeal with a handful of apricots and dates, about four apiece, roughly chopped and simmered in the water as it comes to a boil. I use about 1 1⁄2 cups water for 1⁄4 cup oats, which makes a single serving. As you make more servings, the ratio of water to oats decreases.

After the oats have absorbed almost all the liquid, I add about 2 tablespoons flaxseed meal and about 1⁄4 teaspoon each ground turmeric and cinnamon and 1⁄8 teaspoon each ground ginger and cardamom. You could add a few chunks of crystallized ginger instead of the ground spice. But I prefer a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds, which add sweetness and even stand in for the crunch of nuts.

Try it and give me your verdict.

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Put fatty pork-chop preparations out to pasture

I toyed with the idea of packaging some recipes with this week’s A la Carte story on free-range pork.

There’s been no shortage of variations on pork, from Asian to Indian to classic continental flavors, thanks to The Associated Press and other news services that deal in recipes. But any suggestion that readers should use Full Circle’s acorn-fed pork for anything other than the finest preparations would be both a waste of a money and a dismissal of Tobias Hatfield’s effort to raise an unparalleled pig.

While the pigs savor their last few acorns, though, the rest of us have to eat, albeit pedestrian cuts of meat. So some ideas for preparing quick-cooking pork chops seemed in order.

Pork chops remain a go-to meal for many families. When I was growing up, they were always braised in Campbell’s cream-of-mushroom soup and served atop white rice or buttered egg noodles. Comfort food, yes, but not exactly the best strategy for taking advantage of pork’s leanness.

Because much of the pork in grocery stores is so lean, it can easily be overcooked. A good pork chop should be juicy, appetizingly browned on the outside and slightly pink in the center.

To accomplish that feat, first select the right chops, either medium (3/4 inch to 1 inch) or thick (1 1/2 inches to 2 inches). Fat takes longer to cook, so trim off excess fat. And remember that bone-in chops will take a little longer then boneless chops.

Then approach cooking with four quick steps: Season the meat, sear it, make a sauce as you deglaze the pan and finish the meat in the sauce. The chops will only need to cook a total of about six to 10 minutes.

To test for doneness, make a tiny cut. If the juices run clear or very light pink, the pork chop is done. Or insert a meat thermometer into the side of the chop not touching the bone. It should read 132 F to 135 F after browning. Try your hand at these variations of the technique courtesy of the Los Angeles Times.

 

Pork Chops With Sage Cream

4 medium or thick boneless loin pork chops (about 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick)

1 clove garlic, cut in half

1/2 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

3/4 cup good-quality chicken broth

3/4 cup whipping cream

1 tablespoon minced sage

Pat any excess moisture from surface of the pork chops. Rub chops with the cut garlic; season with the salt and pepper.

Heat the butter and oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Cook chops until browned on both sides, about 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Chops should be not quite done. Remove chops from skillet to a plate. Cover and keep warm.

Reduce heat to medium-low. Add the minced garlic and saute about 10 seconds. Stir in the chicken broth, scraping up browned bits from pan’s bottom. Add the cream and sage; stir to blend.

Bring mixture to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until sauce begins to thicken slightly, about 5 to 8 minutes. Add pork chops with any drippings back to skillet with sauce. Simmer 1 to 2 minutes, until chops are firm to the touch and just pink in center.

Makes 4 servings.

 

Week-Night Pork Chops

4 medium boneless loin pork chops (about 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick)

1 clove garlic, cut in half

1/2 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons butter, divided

1 tablespoon olive oil

3/4 cup high-quality chicken broth

2 sprigs thyme

1 clove garlic, crushed

2 tablespoons chopped parsley or chervil

Pat any excess moisture from surface of the pork chops. Rub both sides of chops with the cut garlic. Season both sides with salt and pepper.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the butter and the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add pork chops and sear 3 to 4 minutes per side until browned. Remove pork chops to a plate and cover with foil to keep warm.

Pour off excess fat. Add the chicken broth, stirring to scrape up any browned bits from bottom of pan. Add the thyme and the crushed garlic clove.

Bring sauce to a simmer and cook until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 2 minutes. Add chops back to pan and cook 1 to 2 minutes to finish cooking. Remove chops from skillet.

Remove garlic and thyme. Add remaining 2 teaspoons butter, tilting pan and swirling butter until sauce is slightly thickened. Spoon sauce over chops. Sprinkle with the parsley or chervil and serve.

Makes 4 servings.

 

Pork Chops With Wine Sauce

4 medium rib or loin pork chops (about 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick)

1/2 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons butter, divided

1 tablespoon minced shallots

2 tablespoons minced carrots

2 tablespoons minced celery

1/3 cup white wine

3/4 cup chicken broth

Pat any moisture from surface of the chops. Season with the salt and pepper.

Heat the oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large, heavy skillet over medium high heat. Add pork chops to skillet and sear until both sides are nicely browned, about 3 to 4 minutes each side. Remove chops from skillet to a plate cover and keep warm.

Reduce heat to low. Pour out all but 1 tablespoon of fat from skillet. Add the shallots, carrots and celery and quickly saute for about 1 to 2 minutes. Add the white wine and stir to deglaze the pan, scraping up the brown bits from bottom.

Stir in the chicken broth. Bring sauce to a simmer; cook until reduced by half.

Add pork chops back into skillet, along with any drippings and simmer, spooning juices over chops as they cook, 1 to 2 minutes or until chops are firm and just pink in center. Remove chops from skillet.

Add remaining butter in small pieces, tilting pan and swirling butter until sauce is slightly thickened. Serve each chop with a little sauce spooned over top.

Makes 4 servings.

 

Pork Chops With Tomato Sauce

2 thick center-cut loin pork chops (about 1 to 1 1/2 inches thick)

1 clove garlic, cut in half

1/2 teaspoon sea salt, plus more to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

2 teaspoons butter

2 teaspoons olive oil

1 large clove garlic, minced

1 cup seeded diced Roma tomatoes

1/3 cup chicken broth

Sprig of thyme

1 (3-inch) strip orange peel

12 small green olives

Pat any moisture from surface of the pork chops. Rub both sides of each chop with the cut clove of garlic. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper.

Heat the butter and oil in a heavy 10-inch saute pan over medium-high heat. Add pork chops and brown both sides of pork, about 5 to 6 minutes on each side. During last minute of cooking, turn pork chops on end to sear edges. Remove chops from skillet to a plate, cover and keep warm.

Add the minced garlic to skillet and saute about 10 seconds. Add the tomatoes, stirring to scrape up browned bits in pan’s bottom.

Stir in the chicken broth to deglaze pan. Add the thyme, orange peel and olives. Bring to a simmer and cook 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add browned pork chops with any drippings back into pan. Simmer 5 to 8 minutes, stirring sauce occasionally, until pork chops are still pink in center.

Makes 2 servings.

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Which food mags deliver most for the money?

Recipes and food stories appropriate for the most celebratory of seasons were tempered last month with no shortage of eulogies for Gourmet magazine.

I never counted myself among the publication’s fans, although I’ve come to appreciate, since its demise, the contributions it made to the industry and its significance in the minds of humble home cooks and chefs, alike.

However, I did recently learn, from the most recent wire story paying tribute to Gourmet, how to work the newsstand to obtain the best food magazine for one’s money. In the past, I’ve subscribed to Food & Wine, due in no small part to its promotion through Bravo’s “Top Chef,” one of my favorite food-meets-reality shows. I’ve also spent happy hours with Bon Appetit after a friend received a free subscription and was only too happy to share once she read it.

So I was pleased to see the Chicago Tribune gave Bon Appetit props for usability, versatility and substance. And with an average of 74 recipes per issue at the cost of about 7 cents per recipe, it delivers more in that arena than any other food publication.

Of the seven magazines the Tribune reviewed, Only Taste of Home’s recipes come in cheaper, but there are fewer of them per issue, compared with BA. Comparison between the two’s target readers and content is pretty irrelevant, anyway.

Keeping the Tribune’s story in mind, I had no qualms about purchasing BA’s February issue for $4.99 today at the Las Vegas airport to read on the flight home. I considered Fine Cooking, tempted by its “ultimate mac-n-cheese” cover but recalled I would be paying about double BA’s cost per recipe. (Fine Cooking’s average number of recipes is 53 per issue for 14 cents per recipe, the Tribune reported.)

Food & Wine is a close contender with BA, delivering 62 recipes per issue at a cost of 8 cents per recipe. But as the Tribune pointed out, it tends to be light on kitchen techniques, heavy on profiles of people in the biz, and it can be tough to discern F&W recipes from some ads. Been there, done that.

I already have marked about a dozen recipes in BA I plan to try, albeit with a few modifications of my own. But browsing recipes keeps a cook’s creative juices flowing. It’s all in the intent to try something new and perfect a technique rather than following a menu plan to the letter, I think.

Before I could even give a second thought to mac-n-cheese, there was BA’s take on the topic on one of its opening pages. Granted, it was just an invitation to visit its Web site to find mac-n-cheese recipes, but that was easily accomplished. And as someone who works with recipes every week, mulling over how best to deliver them to readers, I appreciate BA’s decision to use the Internet as an infinite repository to expand content rather than be bound by printed pages.

BA even brought a smile to my face with its shout-out to New Sammy’s Cowboy Bistro, named this time one of the country’s “top 10 best new romantic getaways.” Now a firm fixture in Talent, the 20-year-old restaurant may be a little too quirky to oust The Jacksonville Inn as most romantic restaurant from the hearts of locals, but if you’ve never been, give it a try. If you’re interested in the local food movement and wine, it guarantees an evening of stimulating conversation.

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Food alliance serves community’s cuisine

Chefs and farmers are joining forces to serve a local feast.

Dubbed the “CommUnity Meal,” the event is planned from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturday at Ashland’s Bellview Grange, 1050 Tolman Creek Road. It’s the first of what organizers hope is an ongoing effort to feed members of the newly formed Local Alliance for Food and to support a sustainable food system. Membership in LAFF is free; the group only wants members’ contact information, says spokeswoman Anne Eldridge.

For a price of $4 to $9, crowds can taste spinach-and-kale frittata, strawberry crepes, Waldorf salad, butternut squash lasagna, cabbage-carrot salad, roasted root vegetables, rosemary-and-garlic potatoes, roasted butternut squash bisque, potato-leek soup, focaccia with sun-dried tomatoes, as well as fruit crisp and pumpkin pie. Four dollars buys one item, $7 two items and $9 three items, says Eldridge.

Ingredients hail from Happy Dirt Veggie Patch, Kurth Family Farms, Joshua Farms, Wander Farm, Our Local Bounty, Blue Fox, Neighborhood Harvest and other local producers. Kristen Lyon, former sous chef of The Garden Bistro at McCully House, and Maren Fray, a Sams Valley caterer, are behind the menu of breakfast and lunch dishes.

The concept was born at last summer’s Friday-night markets in Talent, where Eldridge and others served community meals from June through September. Around Thanksgiving, Eldridge started courting local chefs to lend a hand.

Raised on a farm in upstate New York and resident of a self-sustaining, cooperatively tended New York farm in the 1960s and ’70s, Eldridge, now an Ashland resident, says she was spurred to action by the local farm-to-school movement that aims to produce students’ lunches from locally grown ingredients. Peace Village 365, an offshoot of Peace House, is another sponsor.

A mini market will coincide with the meal. Short on seasonal produce, vendors likely will bring meats, canned items, speciality foods and even seeds for spring gardening, Eldridge says.

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Confit stars in simple, seasonal salads

Food doesn’t get much more comforting than confit.

As explained in this week’s A la Carte edition of Since You Asked, the technique was likely the original way of preserving meat by cooking and then packaging it against contact with air and subsequent spoilage.

I’ve always loved the dark meat of poultry and rich flavors in general, so confit is pretty hard to resist when it’s on order at a restaurant. One of my first brushes — like many people, I imagine — was in the French classic “cassoulet,” a hearty stew of beans, winter vegetables, sausage and confit.

But because confit is slow-cooked before storing, little effort and cooking time is needed to make it the star of your plate. This week’s Since You Asked suggested using it to top winter salads, which is exactly the approach I took last week after a chef friend selflessly shared some homemade confit duck legs she had distributed among family and friends for the holidays.

The first salad utilized a cache of root vegetables that had been exhumed from my garden more than a month prior and had been languishing in my refrigerator awaiting a little TLC. I couldn’t imagine eating such neglected veggies in their raw state, but roasting put an entirely new shine on the beets and baby carrots.

I also roasted half of a golden nugget squash and piled the slightly cooled assortment of cubed beets and squash (I left the carrots whole) atop some crispy leaf lettuce. The confit, my friend told me, only needs to be seared for a few minutes on each side in a cast-iron skillet. A warm cider vinaigrette pulled all the flavors together.

I planned to savor my last duck leg but couldn’t resist pulling it out the following night for another salad, this time of an entirely different sort. I had purchased a jumbo pomegranate, which yielded a good cup and a half of gleaming seeds. Trying to find uses for a 5-pound box of mandarin oranges, I peeled two of the small fruit, sectioned them and tossed those with some of the pomegranate seeds, some toasted walnuts, salad greens and raspberry vinaigrette.

In both cases, I left the duck legs whole. Many people might prefer the meat shredded atop the salad, but because confit is so tender, it just falls off the bone.

If you don’t fancy duck, the confit technique can be applied to just about any meat. I plan to adapt the column’s Turkey Confit recipe to rabbit. With the meat in hand, I’ll be on my way to more simple, seasonal salads.

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Vegan brownie recipe holds up in kitchen trial

I intended to expand last week’s story on vegan cooking with information about desserts, in particular. Until the story’s example of vegan sweets turned sour.

Actress Alicia Silverstone’s vegan cookbook may be dubbed “The Kind Diet,” but her Coffee-Fudge Brownie recipe wasn’t so kind to readers who, enticed by the photo with last week’s story, rushed into the kitchen to whip up a batch. I received two frantic e-mails from readers who watched the brownies overflow the pan and burn to the bottom of their ovens. Both swore they had followed the recipe to the letter. Yikes!

But the truth wasn’t far off. The Jacksonville reader later admitted she had interpreted the ingredients loosely and took liberal license with some substitutions: white flour for whole-wheat, coconut milk for soy or rice milk and “sugar in the raw” for maple sugar. Aha!

I likewise asked the second reader if he used maple sugar rather than maple syrup, which I theorized could be easily confused and obviously would ruin the entire recipe. Because he never responded, I’m assuming he and his Medford family realized their error. It doesn’t help that maple sugar is obscure and very, very, very expensive.

I called Ashland Food Co-op’s baking guru Mary Shaw, who agreed that although Silverstone’s was a “funky” recipe, the proportions of wet and dry ingredients should still produce a brownie-like substance. She agreed to replicate it and report back. I heard this morning that her version, minus 1/2 cup of the coffee, went off without a hitch.

I already had planned to test it in my own kitchen to either reassure readers it worked or to chastise The Associated Press test-kitchen crew for sending me a recipe that didn’t. Luckily, I had a 5-pound bag of whole-wheat pastry flour purchased against holiday baking that I never accomplished. The brown-rice flour and soy milk were easily obtained at Food 4 Less, and I can see why these ingredients may be attractive to someone who isn’t even vegan. Whole-grain flour, nondairy milk, canola oil — these brownies certainly qualify as more healthful in some respects.   

The only sticking point for me was that darned maple sugar. If I had purchased it, these would have been a $15 batch of brownies, and that I couldn’t conscience. Apparently hard-core vegans don’t use cane sugar because it’s sometimes filtered with charcoal made from animal bones. Some sources I consulted on the Internet proclaimed the process so pure that cane sugar meets kosher standards, so it sounds like pure ideology on the vegan end.

Mary assured me I could use brown sugar, but not in the same quantity. Cane sugar is sweeter than maple sugar, she said. It also gives off steam in baking whereas maple sugar does not. I decided that a good compromise was to use half the amount of brown sugar as maple sugar and, to keep the dry-wet ratio the same, less than half the quantity of brewed coffee, which Mary and I thought this recipe contained in excess. I also added about a teaspoon of vanilla to balance out the flavors.

You may ask how I could get away with substituting when the afore-mentioned readers couldn’t. I’m no baking guru myself, but one of the first lessons I learned from Mary while writing a story for Oregon Healthy Living magazine on adapting traditional methods of baking is to only substitute one ingredient per recipe. More than that, and you’re setting yourself up for disaster.

And my brownies decidedly were not a disaster. Forewarned by my beleaguered readers, I set the pan atop a baking sheet should they overflow. But these puffed up and formed a nice, crumbly crumb, a little drier than I prefer in a brownie, but I couldn’t be sure if that’s from overbaking or just the lack of saturated fat. As Mary is fond of saying, there’s nothing that can really replace an egg in baked goods.

To remedy that, I melted down some chocolate truffles my sister-in-law had made for Christmas and smoothed it on top for a frosting. Purchasing vegan “butter” for Silverstone’s glaze definitely was not in the cards. Nor was an additional serving of soy milk. These “kind” brownies went down just fine with a glass of moo juice. 

For some foolproof vegan desserts, consider attending chef Jeff Hauptman’s “Vegan Valentine” class on Feb. 11 at the Co-op. He’ll prepare hemp milk-almond panna cotta; chocolate mousse pie with seed-and-nut crust; gluten-free carrot cake; whole-wheat apple strudel with coconut-caramel sauce and raw cocoa-date fudge. The class is $30 for Co-op owners, $35 otherwise. Register online or call 541-482–2237.

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Don’t be a chicken — learn to cook at winery

Speaking of chicken, a whole slew of recipes will be presented Friday evening at RoxyAnn Winery, provided enough people sign up for its first cooking class of 2010.

Chef Jesse Bartyzal plans a menu of chicken cacciatore, picatta, mousseline, teriyaki, satay, stuffed wings and broth or stock. For $75, participants will enjoy a full meal, each course paired with a glass of RoxyAnn wine. Merlot, viognier, pinot gris and claret are on the list.

The show will be in RoxyAnn’s tasting room, which houses a demonstration kitchen that accommodates 12 to 14 people. The winery has been offering cooking classes to its wine-club members for the past two years, says manager Joe Spagnualo, and only recently opened them to the general public.

“A lot of these wine-club members are foodies,” he says.

The club filled up December’s class, with its holiday-themed feast created by Elements Tapas Bar & Lounge. Denise Marshall of The Last Bite Cooking School prepared a November dinner celebrating the fall harvest. And Dragonfly’s Neil Clooney, who earned the 2008 distinction in Portland as Oregon’s “Iron Chef,” put on an October spread of fall fruits.

RoxyAnn has had no shortage of guest chefs, Spagnualo says. Some approached the winery. Others were engaged by wine-club members to host private dinner parties in the tasting room or were hired to cook for the winery’s release parties. Bartyzal, co-owner of B&B Chef’s Endeavors, is a past president of Southern Oregon’s chapter of the American Culinary Federation.

RoxyAnn will cancel the class if it doesn’t register a minimum of eight participants by Friday afternoon. Call Spagnualo at 541-776-2315, ext. 301 or e-mail wineclub@roxyann.com. Or if you can’t make it, ask about classes scheduled in February, March and April.

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Roast chicken recipes come in to roost

When it comes to food writers, birds of a feather flock together.

Ideal for chilly winter evenings, roast chicken is the dish everyone’s crowing about. First Jan Roberts-Dominguez shared side dishes in this week’s A la Carte to accompany the “perfect” roast chicken, as covered in her Oct. 28 column. Then more recipes for the actual main dish hit The Associated Press wire and other papers around the country.

But it really is true that roast chicken is a go-to meal that stretches your food dollar, makes meal planning easier and requires very little prep time, 15 minutes or less for each of the following three dishes. As the Detroit Free Press suggests, toss leftover cooked chicken in green salads or use it to make chicken salad a stir-fry or sandwiches. You can also use it in casseroles, pasta dishes and soups.

When storing leftovers, be sure to remove meat from the chicken carcass (and refrigerate it, of course!) for sure-fire food safety. Use leftover cooked chicken within three days. You can freeze the carcass and use it later for soup or stock, as your time permits.

If you want an entire week’s worth of meals, roast two birds simultaneously to save your time and the energy your oven uses. And always roast chicken with the skin on. Yes, the skin is where all the fat is, but as Jan has advocated, it also keeps the bird from drying out during cooking. Remove the skin after you’ve removed the chicken from the oven, if that’s your pleasure. For me, all the pleasure is in the skin.

So plan on buying a chicken this week if you’ve never roasted one. When shopping, look for good-sized, plump chickens, some of which are labeled “oven roasters.” Two 4- to 5-pound birds will fit together on a broiler pan or large roasting pan, the Free Press reports. A broiler pan allows the fat to drip into the pan’s bottom while the birds brown evenly on all sides.

An Oregon State University Family Food educator, Jan does not recommend rinsing a chicken before cooking because any latent bacteria will be destroyed inside the hot oven, whereas the area around your sink will just become a bacteria breeding zone if you insist on this step and don’t properly sanitize after it.

In the first recipe from the Free Press, however, rinsing the chicken removes excess salt from the brining process. The second dish from The Associated Press is a one-pot meal that includes potatoes, carrots and onions.

The last recipe was developed by cook and author Lucinda Scala Quinn, who after making roast chicken thousands of times, cut out the bird’s backbone one day in a rush, laid the whole bird flat and cooked it in under an hour.

 

Simply Seasoned Roast Chicken

1 whole chicken, about 5 pounds

1 cup kosher salt, plus more to taste

1 cup sugar

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 large clove garlic, pressed or crushed

2 tablespoons favorite fresh herbs (such as thyme, rosemary, parsley, tarragon), chopped, or several teaspoons dried

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 medium onion, peeled and cut in half

1 large lemon, cut in half

2 cups fat-free, reduced-sodium chicken broth, or more as needed

Remove neck and giblets of the chicken for another use. Place chicken in a large stock pot. Pour in 2 gallons water and sprinkle in the salt and sugar, swishing it around to dissolve. Refrigerate for 6 hours or overnight.

Remove chicken from brine, discard brine and rinse chicken well inside and out under cold running water. Pat chicken dry. Place on a platter and return to refrigerator for 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 400 F. In a small bowl, mix the butter with the garlic and fresh or dried herbs. Remove chicken from refrigerator and pat dry with paper towels again. Season cavity of chicken with salt and pepper to taste and place the onion and lemon halves in cavity. Gently loosen skin of chicken from breast, thigh and leg, being careful not to tear it. Rub about half of herb butter under chicken skin and onto flesh. Rub remaining herb butter all over chicken’s outer skin and season with salt and pepper.

Loosely tie chicken legs together, and place chicken in a shallow roasting pan. Add the chicken broth to pan. Roast 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 F, and continue roasting about 1 hour more or until nicely browned and cooked through. Baste occasionally with pan juices. Chicken is done when internal temperature is 165 F.

Remove chicken from oven and let it rest for 15 minutes before slicing and serving. If desired, make a pan sauce with drippings. Degrease juices, and set pan over 2 burners. Add broth or wine and bring to a boil, scraping up browned bits on pan’s bottom. Knead together 1 tablespoon flour with 1 tablespoon softened butter. Whisk butter-flour mixture into pan to thicken.

Makes 6 servings.

 

Roasted Chicken With Root Vegetables and Garlic

1 teaspoon garlic powder

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 (3- to 4-pound) whole chicken

3 tablespoons butter

4 sprigs fresh thyme

3 sprigs (each about 4 inches long) fresh rosemary

1 yellow onion, quartered

1 (12-ounce) bag baby carrots

1 pound new potatoes

1 lemon, quartered

6 cloves garlic, peeled but left whole

Ground black pepper, to taste

Heat oven to 300 F. Combine the salt and garlic powder, then rub mixture over and under chicken’s skin. Set aside.

In a 5 1⁄2-quart (or larger) Dutch oven over medium, melt the butter. Add the thyme and rosemary. Heat for 30 seconds. Add the chicken, breast down, and brown for 4 minutes. Use tongs to carefully turn chicken and brown on bottom for 6 minutes.

Arrange the onion, carrots, potatoes, lemon and garlic cloves around chicken, then place lid over pot. Transfer to oven and roast for 1 hour 15 minutes, or until chicken breast reads 160 F on an instant thermometer.

Transfer chicken to a platter and tent with foil. Use a slotted spoon to transfer vegetables to a serving bowl. Cover to keep warm.

Discard lemons and any herb stems from pot. Place pot over medium heat and bring to a boil. Cook until reduced and thickened, about 5 minutes. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve drizzled over chicken and vegetables.

Makes 4 servings.

 

Flat Roast Chicken

1 whole chicken, 3 to 4 pounds, backbone removed

1⁄2 teaspoon coarse salt, plus a pinch

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, divided

1⁄4 teaspoon crushed red-pepper flakes

2 cloves garlic, smashed or chopped

Heat oven to 400 F. Cut along both sides of the chicken’s backbone with kitchen shears to remove bone; reserve backbone for broth. Spread bird down flat, skin-side up. Press down firmly on breastbone to flatten. Pat dry with paper towels. Season with the salt and pepper, to taste, on both sides.

Heat a large, oven-proof skillet over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add chicken, skin side down; cook until browned, 3 minutes. Turn, being careful not to break skin. Transfer skillet to oven. Cook until chicken is golden brown and cooked through, 40 to 45 minutes.

Remove chicken to cutting board; let rest 10 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice and remaining 1 tablespoon butter to pan drippings; whisk. Whisk together remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, the red-pepper flakes, garlic and pinch of salt in a bowl. Cut chicken into pieces; drizzle with lemon sauce and pan sauce.

Makes 6 servings.

— Recipe adapted by the Chicago Tribune from “Mad Hungry: Feeding Men & Boys,” by Lucinda Scala Quinn.

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A missive from mac-n-chese rehab

It’s the first step toward overcoming addiction.

After reading the Night Crawler’s resolution to get his fat-and-carbs fix fewer times per week, I’m coming clean.

It may come as a surprise that I, too, share Chris Conrad’s addiction to macaroni and cheese. It may come as more of a surprise that he and I actually fed a co-dependency on this dish for a newspaper-sanctioned dining review, no less. All we have to say about that is Medford’s 38 Central serves a bacon-topped, cheesy, gooey, noodly casserole that leaves even the depraved feeling slightly disgusted with themselves.

While I wax nostalgic for my fat-induced euphoria, allow me to offer a few parting words on mac-n-cheese.

I agree with Chris that when it’s the boxed kind, it’s got to be Kraft. Blame our moms for begrudgingly starting us down the path of destruction from an early age, but no store brand can touch it.

And not Kraft’s newer version that comes with a foil packet of premade sauce, a la Velveeta. We hard-core types only find bliss in a sauce made with real butter or, in a pinch, margarine.

Yet as I progressed through this lifelong addiction, I came to mistrust Kraft’s lurid orange color, surely a sign of impurities. There was a time when I plunked down extra cash for the white powder. Annie’s white-cheddar shells were a mainstay of my pantry for years.

When I reached the point that only a massive injection of sodium sated my mac-n-cheese craving, I turned to Stouffer’s. I did manage to fend off my urge to microwave the stuff and instead suffered pangs while my mac developed a bubbly brown crust in the oven.

But when Stouffer’s changed the recipe last year, swapping noodles for cheese as its first ingredient, I had to admit it was time for comfort-food rehab. These days I get my fat-and-carbs fix with pasta carbonara or potatoes au gratin or the very occasional kugel.

When I do fall off the wagon, though, I’m cushioning the blow with this Lobster Mac and Four Cheeses. With any luck, I’ll drag Chris and the rest of you down with me.

Lobster Mac and Four Cheeses

8 ounces dried elbow macaroni pasta

2 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese

11⁄2 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese, divided

1 cup freshly grated Gruyere cheese

4 ounces low-fat cream cheese (do not use nonfat)

2 cups low-fat milk or heavy cream

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 medium cloves garlic, minced

2 medium shallots, minced

1 pound cooked lobster meat (if using frozen lobster meat, defrost thoroughly), coarsely chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1⁄4 cup panko (Japanese-style) bread crumbs (may substitute fine, plain, dried bread crumbs)

Preheat oven to 400 F. Lightly grease a shallow, 3-quart casserole dish with nonstick cooking oil spray.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the macaroni and cook according to package directions. Drain; reserve 1 cup of cooking water.

Fill a large saucepan with about 2 inches of water; heat over medium-high heat. Combine the cheddar cheese, 1 cup of the Parmesan, the Gruyere and cream cheese in a stainless-steel (or heatproof) mixing bowl that will just fit over top of medium saucepan (so that water will not touch bottom of bowl). Once cheeses start to melt, add the milk or cream and stir gently; this will take about 10 minutes total. Remove from heat and cover.

Pour out heated water from saucepan, then add the butter and melt it over medium heat. Add the garlic and shallots; cook for 2 minutes, until softened, then add the lobster meat and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until just heated through. Pour reserved pasta cooking water over macaroni to loosen it (still in colander); drain, then add macaroni to saucepan and stir to coat with butter. Add cheese mixture and stir to incorporate. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Transfer to prepared casserole dish, sprinkle with remaining 1⁄2 cup Parmesan and the bread crumbs. Bake uncovered for about 10 minutes, or until topping is golden brown. Serve hot.

Makes 4 to 6 generous servings.

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