Home-canned artichoke hearts a ‘revelation’

For years, I was the one doling out food tips to fellow Mail Tribune staffers, including the design guru behind so many editions of the newspaper’s food section.

This week, I was on the receiving end, as my friend and food-section counterpart filled me in on how to grill artichokes. Clearly, some variations on this prickly but oh-so-delicious vegetable are in order. Although “artichoke” was one of this blog’s most searched terms this summer, most of the references are to commercially prepared artichoke hearts.

So I’m going to do one better for artichoke aficionados. Way better. And it’s still in time for many of us who have artichokes coming on in the garden. The need for tightly formed buds, firm and weighty, makes this recipe for homemade, canned artichoke hearts an ideal treatment for those tiny artichokes that so often sprout up around a central, much larger blossom.

Be forewarned: This recipe is an involved process with a very small yield, just three jars to treasure. But cookbook author and food blogger Cathy Barrow swears the results are worth it. “So spectacularly different from the vaguely metallic, overly acidified versions on the grocery store shelf, it is a revelation,” she writes for The Washington Post.

Once cured for a month or more, these artichoke hearts are velvety, tart and full of flavor. Layer them on pizza, flatbread or sandwiches; strew them into salads and frittatas; combine them with cured black olives, roasted red peppers and goat cheese for a charcuterie platter, coarsely chop them for bruschetta topping or enjoy them on their own as a side dish.

To trim the artichokes, break the leaves away from the heart until the tender, yellow-bottomed center leaves are revealed. On a baby artichoke, that will be only a few of the outer leaves, but larger artichokes have many more fully formed leaves. If all of the leaves have thorns, remove them all and scrape away the furry inner choke.

Work quickly. The hearts will darken when exposed to air. A lemony water bath will preserve their light color. Beware: The tannins in raw artichoke will stain your hands. Lemon juice will remove the stain.

If you choose to skip the water-bath canning called for here, refrigerate sealed jars of artichokes for one month before serving. (Artichokes that are not water-bath-canned will not achieve the same silky texture as those that are.)

Photo for The Washington Post by Deb Lindsey

Home-Canned Artichoke Hearts

4 lemons

9 medium or 15 baby artichokes

1/4 cup plus 3 teaspoons kosher salt or sea salt

1 cup distilled white vinegar, plus more as needed

1/4 cup white-wine vinegar

1/4 cup mild olive oil, or more as needed

1 tablespoon dried oregano

3/4 teaspoon crushed red-pepper flakes

3 garlic cloves, peeled and root ends trimmed

3 (1-inch) strips lemon zest

Halve and juice the lemons. Place spent lemon halves in a 5-quart, nonreactive (not aluminum or copper) pot; fill it with cold water. Strain juice and reserve it for marinade.

To trim the artichokes, pull leaves from each one, snapping them where they naturally break. Use a sharp knife or vegetable peeler to peel choke, then make a clean cut across end of stem, retaining tender portion. Use a grapefruit spoon, melon baller or side of a teaspoon to scrape away fuzzy choke, revealing meaty part of it, then quarter entire choke. (For baby artichokes, trim only to any inner leaves without a thorn.) As each choke is trimmed, drop it into pot.

Add the 1/4 cup salt. Bring pot filled with lemon water and artichokes to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium or medium-low so water is barely bubbling. Cook, uncovered, until artichokes are fork-tender, for about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, make marinade: In a small saucepan over high heat, combine reserved lemon juice, the vinegars, oil, oregano, crushed red-pepper flakes and garlic cloves. Bring to a boil; cook for 5 minutes, then remove from heat.

Use a slotted spoon to transfer artichokes to sanitized jars, dividing them evenly and stacking small ones and first cutting medium ones into quarters. Tuck them in as tightly as possible without breaking or bruising them.

Whisk marinade well and divide among jars. If there is not enough marinade to cover, add oil as needed to leave 1/2 inch head space at top of each jar. Make sure 1 garlic clove, 1 strip of lemon zest and 1 teaspoon salt go into each jar.

Run a chopstick or flat plastic knife along inside of jar to dislodge any air bubbles. Clean rim of each jar with distilled white vinegar to cut residual oils, place warmed lids on and finger-tighten rings (not too tight). Process in boiling-water bath for 15 minutes, ensuring water is at a low boil before starting timer for processing. Turn off heat and let jars rest in pot for 10 minutes. Use tongs to transfer jars to a clean, folded dish towel to cool over several hours.

Store water bath-canned jars in a cool space to cure for 1 month. Once opened, jars should be refrigerated and used within a month.

Makes 9 to 15 servings (makes 3 pints).

Recipe from Cathy Barrow, author of “Mrs. Wheelbarrow’s Practical Pantry: Recipes and Techniques for Year-Round Preserving” (Norton, November 2014).

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Spur quicker consumption with quick pickling

The last post to this blog betrays my tendency to purchase more food than we can consume in a reasonable period of time.

It’s not so bad when the item is shelf-stable, at least for a couple of years. But many of us overestimate how often preserved food will keep. In many instances, it isn’t safety that’s called into question but rather quality. Echoing the sentiment of a local Master Food Preserver, why would I eat my 3-year-old canned peaches after we just put up more?

Quick-pickled lemon cucmbers and radishes (Sarah Lemon photo)

In one small arena, at least, my consumption is keeping pace with preservation. Last year’s quick-pickled peppers, explained in a previous post, are nearly gone. A lone habanero chili is biding its time in a jar of vinegar until the next batch of nachos. Waiting in the wings are some Italian sweet peppers that I pickled a few days ago. The only reason they weren’t roasted and frozen is because I have yet to use last year’s frozen stash. Sigh!

Also consigned to the quick-pickle fate this week were lemon cucumbers and radishes. Refrigerator storage aside, the free-form nature of quick pickling is suited to almost any combination of vegetables, as a recent article in the Miami Herald pointed out.

The following recipe from writer Linda Cicero specifies cucumber, bell pepper, radish and carrots. But she also recommends jicama, golden beets, turnips, carrots and celery, even zucchini and other types of squash. See a previous post to this blog for my favorite pickled zucchini recipe. Cicero cites McCormick.com.

Then add your pickled veggies to charcuterie plates and relish trays, burgers and bratwursts. Chop them up to mix into chicken, tuna or egg salad. Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches, in particular, are traditional repositories of pickled veggies.

While Cicero gives these a refrigerator shelf life of two weeks when stored in a nonreactive container, I find that quick-pickled veggies actually keep much longer and can even improve in flavor. You be the judge of their quality.

Asian-Style Pickled Vegetables

1 large seedless or English cucumber, thinly sliced (about 2 cups)

1 medium red bell pepper, cut into thin strips (about 2 cups)

1 cup thinly sliced radishes or daikon (Asian white radish)

1/2 cup julienne-cut carrots

2 tablespoons mixed pickling spice

2 cups sugar

2 cups rice vinegar

2 tablespoons kosher salt

In a large, glass bowl, mix the vegetables. Set aside. Place the pickling spice in center of a piece of cheesecloth or a coffee filter. Tie tightly with string. Place in a medium saucepan with the sugar, vinegar and salt. Bring to boil on medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve sugar and salt. Reduce heat to low; simmer for 5 minutes.

Pour hot liquid and pickling spice bundle over vegetables. Cover. Refrigerate vegetables. Stir once a day for 1 to 2 days to blend flavors before serving. Makes 20 servings.

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Blueberries bring natural pectin to jam-making

If there’s one food without a chance of escaping my innate hoarding tendencies, it’s jam.

I’m ashamed to admit it isn’t even homemade jam, a backlog in the pantries of many avid food preservers. Because my husband, Will, consumes jam with such abandon, I’d never be able to keep up. That’s why I stockpile it when it’s on sale.

To be clear, it’s not just any, old jam. I’m loyal, almost to a fault, to the Bonne Maman brand because it actually tastes like jam (not a fruit-tinged, corn-syrup slurry) and lists fruit before sugar among the ingredients. When I can find it for less than $3 per jar (usually at Ashland Shop’n Kart), I load up on as many flavors as possible, trying to calculate how many I already have on hand. Plum, my personal favorite, is one of the rarest commodities, so I can never overpurchase it. But I invariably come home to a 15-jar stash of strawberry, apricot, cherry, peach, raspberry and even “four fruits” dispersed around the pantry in some vain attempt to rotate it by freshness.

The only flavor exempt from our zeal is “wild blueberry,” off-putting for some reason to Will. I personally think blueberries are wasted in jam because they owe so much of their appeal to texture and appearance.

Yet the blueberry’s sturdy skin is precisely what makes it so suited to jam-making. According to cookbook author and food blogger Cathy Barrow. Squashing blueberries activates all the natural pectin needed for a good set. See her instructions for testing a jam’s set in a previous post.

Barrow’s recipe, with its inclusion of lemon verbena, could possibly give me a faint appreciation for blueberry jam. Lemon zest could be substituted.

This method is so foolproof, Barrow claims, that it requires no added pectin. Taste the berries before starting. If they are very tart, add more sugar. If they are very sweet, use less — but use no less than 3 cups.

Photo for The Washington Post by Deb Lindsey

Blueberry Jam

2 pints fresh blueberries, picked over for stems

3 to 4 cups sugar, depending on the berry

Juice of 1 lemon

4 sprigs lemon verbena, 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest or 1/4 teaspoon almond extract (optional)

Rinse the berries. Spread them in a single layer on a clean kitchen towel until dry.

In a mixing bowl, combine berries with the sugar (as needed) and lemon juice. Add the lemon verbena or lemon zest, if using. Stir to blend well, then let mixture sit at room temperature for 1 hour.

Transfer mixture to a heavy-bottomed, nonreactive saucepan; discard lemon verbena, if using. Use a potato masher to crush half of berries, then stir to incorporate. Bring to a boil over high heat; cook long enough so mixture foams, continuing to stir and mash all but a few berries.

When mixture begins to gel at bottom of pan, you’re close to finished. Once foam is almost entirely gone, jam will be done (about 35 minutes). Test the set (see related recipe); stir in the almond extract, if using. Ladle jam into clean jars, leaving 1/2 inch head space.

Clean rim of each jar. Secure warmed lids and finger tighten rings (not too tightly). Process in boiling-water bath for 10 minutes. Turn off heat and let jars sit in water bath until boiling has stopped. That will reduce siphoning, in which food burbles up under lid, breaking the seal. Use jar lifter to transfer jars to a clean, folded dish towel to cool for several hours.

Label and date sealed jars. Makes 4 half-pint jars.

Recipe from Cathy Barrow, author of “Mrs. Wheelbarrow’s Practical Pantry: Recipes and Techniques for Year-Round Preserving” (Norton, November 2014).

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Hands-on knife class needs keen participants

Sharps knives are much safer in a cook’s hand than dull knives, or so most of us have heard.

And sharp blades also are more efficient, allowing cooks to work faster and with less effort. But how many of us maintain the right tool with conscientious care only to wonder how exactly to wield it? A hands-on class with chef Constance Jesser, co-owner of Jacksonville Mercantile, can set you set straight.

The Monday, Aug. 11, session is open to just eight people (Jesser is looking for a few more participants). Instruction, starting at 6:30 p.m., will include the differences in knife styles, how to sharpen and store them, as well as all the cuts common in professional kitchens, detailed in a previous post. The class costs $45. Call 541-899-1047 to register.

MCT photo

Students need to bring their own chef’s knife and paring knife. For anyone unclear on those knives or their functions, here are explanations courtesy of McClatchy News Service.

A chef’s knife is a utility blade useful for everything from cutting meat to dicing vegetables. It’s considered the most important, go-to and versatile knife to have in the kitchen. It comes in several lengths, but an 8-inch blade is a good, standard size. The blade should be wide at the heel end (near the handle), tapering to a point at the tip end.

A paring knife is a small, all-purpose knife designed for intricate work, such as deveining shrimp or skinning a small fruit or vegetable. The blades are thin and short, about 2 to 4 inches long. Use a paring knife for peeling, paring, coring and pitting or removing the tops of strawberries, or any small slicing jobs like garlic cloves.

Bringing one’s own blades likely is a bonus feature of the class for those looking to upgrade based on a chef’s opinion. German and Japanese brands are known for their quality, value and reliability. Some middle-of-the-road models are available from Wusthof, Shun, Zwilling J.A. Henckels and Global.

No matter their provenance, all knives benefit from the following treatment:

Keep them out of the dishwasher: Harsh detergent and heavy jostling can damage and dull knife blades. Instead, carefully wash with a sponge using warm, soapy water.

Don’t leave them soaking: Someone could get cut by a knife hidden at the bottom of a murky pool of dishwater. Or, other utensils and dishes could blunt the blade.

Use the right board: Wooden cutting boards are most forgiving on knife edges; acrylic and ceramic dull blades faster.

Store separately: Don’t crowd knives in a drawer with other utensils; they’ll get damaged. Keep knives in a wooden block holder or a wall-mounted magnetic strip.

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Baby’s berry blues warrant look at prewashing

Fresh blueberries have been a commodity at local farmers markets and U-pick patches almost since the start of summer.

But they’re just starting to come on at the Oregon Coast, my preferred locale for U-picking organic berries at a family farm that’s grown them for several generations. I mined the bushes with more fervor than usual this past weekend, spurred on by my 16-month-old son’s love of blueberries.

The perfect finger food for tiny tots, blueberries keep well frozen for months and months. Before doling them out to my little boy, I used to relegate frozen berries to baked goods, where their softened texture didn’t compromise the end result.

In the hands of a baby, however, frozen blueberries become the world’s most potent purple dye, staining hands, cheeks and lips even after bath time, which only softens the patches of pigment to gray. My husband forbade blueberry consumption in the week leading up to my sister-in-law’s June wedding, in which my son had a role. We don’t want him to look dirty in photos, Will admonished.

In hopes of staving off so many blueberry stains, I’ve changed my typical approach to preservation that entails washing the berries first, spreading them out on cookie sheets and then popping them in the freezer to form an ice glaze around each berry. That method makes them easier to pour into batters and over oatmeal, I reasoned.

Conventional wisdom holds that washing delicate produce any farther in advance than a few minutes before consuming breaks down the delicate cells, causing juices to seep out. So after picking over my berries for stray stems and withered specimens, I simply packed them, unwashed, into quart-sized freezer bags. A quick rinse is all they need before hitting my son’s high-chair tray or a bowl of cake batter.

My favorite lemon-blueberry cake, the topic of a previous post, quickly disappears at potlucks and picnics. But because it rises only a couple of inches in a 9-inch, round cake pan, it’s been mistaken for quick bread.

Here’s a blueberry cake recipe, courtesy of The Washington Post, that cookbook author Lisa Yockelson describes as “light and airy.” She suggests serving it with mid-afternoon iced tea or coffee, and as a casual treat.

It can be made a day in advance and kept (covered) at room temperature.

Photo for The Washington Post by Deb Lindsey

Blueberry Cake Squares

2 cups flour

3/4 teaspoon baking powder

3/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt, preferably fine sea salt

1 cup fresh blueberries, picked over for stems

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

3/4 cup granulated sugar

2 large eggs

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

3/4 cup sour cream

Confectioners’ sugar, for sprinkling

Preheat oven to 350 F. Coat inside of an 8-by-8 baking pan (2 inches deep) with nonstick flour-and-oil spray.

Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt onto a sheet of wax paper.

In a medium bowl, toss the blueberries with 1 1/2 teaspoons of sifted flour mixture until thoroughly coated.

Place the butter in bowl of a stand mixer or beat with a hand-held electric mixer. Beat on medium speed until smooth, for about 2 minutes. Stop to scrape down sides of bowl.

On moderately high speed, blend in the granulated sugar in additions, beating for 45 seconds after each addition. Add the eggs at a time, beating for 30 seconds (or until just incorporated) after each addition. Blend in the vanilla extract. Stop to scrape down sides of bowl.

On low speed, beat in half of flour mixture, the sour cream, then remaining flour mixture, mixing just until flour is absorbed.

Scatter coated blueberries over batter; use a flexible spatula to fold them in. Scrape batter into pan, smoothing surface evenly. Bake in preheated oven for 45 minutes or until cake has risen and set and is golden-brown on top. Baked cake will pull away slightly from sides of baking pan. Cool cake completely.

Just before serving, sift confectioners’ sugar evenly over top. Cut the cake into 16 squares.

Makes 16 servings (makes one 8-by-8-inch cake).

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Ways with watermelon span summer months

There’s no trick to eating summer’s sweet, juicy watermelons, as Doreen Bradshaw pointed out in this week’s A la Carte.

The owner of Seven Oaks Farm in Central Point keeps a bowl of chilled watermelon wedges in her refrigerator to keep her cool as she traverses the farm’s fields and country store all summer. But such ripe, just-picked fruit can supply the flavor for more refined dishes once sliced watermelon becomes a ubiquitous aspect of summer.

A few recipes celebrating the essence of watermelon accompanied this week’s story. Gazpacho and Picante Three-Melon Salad can compose a light meal.

For dessert, there’s A Watermelon Fantasy, devised by the Inn at Little Washington, a rural Virginia institution considered one of the best restaurants in America.

MCT photo

Using the restaurant’s cookbook, Daniel Neman of the St. Louis Post-Dispatch replicated this multilayered sorbet for a recent story. Neman calls the results the most summer dessert he’s ever had.

Although he concedes that conjuring A Watermelon Fantasy is no picnic for the time involved, Neman suggests making it in advance over the course of a couple of days. To realize the full effect, cooks need to make a honeydew sorbet to represent the rind; spread that around the interior of a chilled bowl and freeze. Next, make a passion-fruit sorbet, spreading a thin amount of it inside the other sorbet to represent the transitional area between the rind and the red part of the watermelon. Finally, make a watermelon sorbet — rehydrated currants stand in for the seeds — to represent the inside of the watermelon.

The overall visual impact, Neman promises, is stunning and so is the taste: remarkably refreshing and not overly sweet.

In the same vein is a recent Washington Post recipe for a duo of granita — watermelon-basil and poblano chili — layered in a martini glass to evoke a slab of melon still sporting its rind. Black sesame seeds suggest watermelon pips, and a jigger of tequila poured on top transforms the granita into a refreshing, slushy cocktail.

Yet all that fussing over watermelon may be a bit much as summer wanes and its typically lazy pace accelerates toward the fall harvest and return to school. Families wanting to savor summer can consider these simpler ways with watermelon that will seem fresh as long as the crop lasts.

The juice gets a nutritional boost from kale, which isn’t discernible as such in this best-selling beverage from Juice Generation, a popular chain of fresh juice bars in New York City. Look for a story on fresh-squeezed juices with recipes in next week’s A la Carte.

Watermelon-Lime Ice Pops

4 cups watermelon chunks

1/2 cup lime juice (from 2 to 4 limes)

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

Puree the watermelon in a food processor until smooth. Press through a fine strainer. You should have about 2 cups. Whisk together the watermelon, lime juice and sweetened condensed milk. Pour into ice-pop molds and freeze for at least 4 hours and up to a week.

Hold ice pops under hot running water for a few seconds before unmolding. With their exteriors warmed up a bit, they should slide easily from the molds.

Makes 8 to 12 pops (depending on volume of molds).

Recipe from Newsday

MCT photo

Hail to Kale

1 cup kale

1 cup watermelon cubes

1 medium apple

1/2 medium lemon, peeled

Juice the kale, watermelon, apple and lemon according to directions on juicing machine; stir to combine. Makes 1 serving.

Recipe from “The Juice Generation: 100 Recipes for Fresh Juices and Superfood Smoothies” (Touchstone 2014).

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Strawberries, apples make jams just right

Peaches, blackberries and even local apples are starting to dictate food preservers’ plans.

The biannual peach-canning spree with my mother-in-law is slated for Friday. But that hasn’t kept her from filling the freezer with other local fruits, including blackberries I picked, to put up at her leisure.

Indeed, strawberries, given the low- and no-sugar treatment in this week’s food section, are still going strong at the patch off Hanley Road and a newer one near Vilas Road. And rhubarb, often considered a springtime fruit (but actually a vegetable) is looking robust in my garden after a good feeding and mulching. With the wide availability of mangos in grocery stores, I could produce my own batch of Rhubarb-Mango Chutney that accompanied this week’s canning story.

And now that apples are on at Ashland’s Valley View Orchards and others locally, they could play off the strawberries in this jam recipe from cookbook author and food blogger Cathy Barrow for The Washington Post. The pectin in the apple helps to set jam, of course. But it’s still important to use about three-quarters perfectly ripe berries and the rest underripe; the latter have more natural pectin, further contributing to a proper set.

This recipe requires a candy thermometer and 4 sanitized half-pint jars with new lids and rings. A preserving pan is recommended but probably only worth the investment for those who do a lot of canning.

Photo for The Washington Post by Deb Lindsey

Just Right Strawberry Preserves

3 pounds (about 2 quarts) strawberries, hulled

3 cups granulated sugar (organic or raw may be substituted, but use weight, not volume; 26.4 ounces)

Juice of 1 lemon

1 Granny Smith apple

1/2 teaspoon unsalted butter (optional)

In a large mixing bowl, combine the strawberries, sugar and lemon juice; use a potato masher or broad, nonflexible spoon to mash fruit into sugar just enough so that some larger pieces of berry remain.

Use large-holed side of a box grater to grate the (unpeeled) apple directly into bowl, turning it once core is exposed. Stir to incorporate thoroughly. Cover and refrigerate for 2 to 24 hours.

Pour mixture into a colander set over a heavy-bottomed, 5-quart preserving pan or pot. Stir, encouraging collected syrup to fall into pan or pot. Remove colander, seating it inside bowl to capture any remaining syrup; add that to pan or pot as needed. Leave solids in colander while you cook syrup.

Clip a candy thermometer onto preserving pan or pot; cook over high heat to bring syrup to 220 F, the soft-ball stage in candymaking. Syrup will foam and rise up, so stir it from time to time. Add berry mixture to syrup, stirring as preserves return to a rolling boil. Preserves will foam and rise up as water boils away and the set is achieved. Once foam is nearly gone, jam will be done. Turn off heat and test the set (see NOTES, below).

Once set has been achieved, add the butter, if desired. Stir well and thoroughly without scraping sides or bottom of pan or pot until last bits of foam have disappeared.

Ladle preserves into sanitized jars, leaving 1/2 inch of head space. Run a chopstick or flat plastic knife along inside of jars to dislodge any air bubbles. Clean rim of each jar, place warmed lids and finger tighten rings (not too tightly). Process in a boiling-water bath for 10 minutes. Turn off heat and use a jar lifter to transfer jars to a clean, folded dish towel to cool for several hours.

Label and date sealed jars. Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year. Refrigerate after opening. Makes 3 1/2 to 4 half-pint jars.

NOTES: There are three ways to test the set. The sheeting test entails stirring preserves, then lifting the spoon to watch jam sheet off the spoon, flowing slowly and collecting along the bottom of the spoon before languidly dripping back into the pot. It should look like jam, not like syrup. The sheeting test takes a practiced eye.

The cold plate test is a surefire method of testing the set. Before beginning to cook jam, tuck 3 small plates and three spoons into the freezer. Once preserves seem to be set, use a cold spoon to place a tablespoon or so of jam on the plate. It should set instantly. Press against blob of jam. Does it resist just a bit? Wrinkle a little? It’s done.

The third method is the lazy cook’s cold-plate test. Remove preserves from heat and cool for 3 to 5 minutes. Press against surface of the jam. Does it resist just a bit? Wrinkle a little, as though a very small pebble has hit the surface of a pond? The jam is ready.

For jam that is not yet set, return preserves to the stove; cook for 2 to 5 minutes at a strong, hard, foamy boil that rises up no matter how much you stir; then test again. Stop and start cooking process as many times as necessary until you are satisfied with the set. Jam will set further as it sits, so err on the side of a loose set versus a very firm set.

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Pack these salads, chilled soup for picnics

Saturday at Britt Festivals wasn’t just a chance to see one of my favorite artists; it also afforded one of the summer’s first occasions to picnic.

Kudos to Britt for still allowing outside food and beverages at its venue. It’s a tradition I always plan to exploit, not least because I have so many garden vegetables during the summer concert season to enjoy and share with friends.

Predictably, zucchini played a role in Saturday’s spread. If my fellow gardening friend hadn’t called to check on what I was making, we probably would have ended up with more than one variation on summer squash. As it was, we enjoyed it sautéed with eggplant and garlic and doused with balsamic vinegar to top slabs of country bread.

The last of my snow peas made a crisp salad that drew rave reviews from my other friend for its dressing, a simple vinaigrette of rice vinegar, lime juice, soy sauce, Sriracha and sesame oil. The fish sauce that I forgot goes even further to evoke a Vietnamese dish, replete with fresh mint. Paper-thin slices of garden radishes, a bit of sweet onion and lots of toasted, slivered almonds finished off the salad.

Grilled broccoli composed the third salad with feta, olives and tomatoes, courtesy of my gardening friend. I can only hope that once the sweet potatoes size up in her garden, she’d pledge those toward another picnic or potluck.

If I grew sweet potatoes, I might consider this lighter alternative to traditional, mayonnaise-laden potato salad. And if I need to extend zucchini’s appeal, this cold soup would fill the bill.

Sweet Potato Salad With Lime Vinaigrette

2 pounds sweet potatoes

1 cup sliced red onion, slices cut into half-moons

1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

1 teaspoon grated lime zest

1/2 cup olive oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon chopped garlic

1/2 fresh serrano chili, seeded and finely chopped

Place potatoes in a large pot, add enough water to cover them, cover pot with a lid and bring to a boil. Cook until potatoes are pierced easily with tip of a sharp knife, for 15 to 20 minutes. Cooking time will depend on size of potatoes. Drain and let cool until you can handle them. Peel and cut into 1/2-inch slices, then cut slices in half.

In a large bowl, toss potatoes with the red onion. In a small bowl, whisk together the lime juice, lime zest, olive oil, salt, pepper, sugar, garlic and chili. Pour dressing over vegetables and toss to coat. Cover and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour and serve, or refrigerate for several hours to overnight. Serve at room temperature.

Makes 6 servings.

Recipe from “Potato Salad: 65 Recipes From Classic to Cool,” by Debbie Moose (John Wiley & Sons, 2009).

MCT photo

Cold Zucchini Soup

3 medium zucchini, trimmed and cut into 2-inch chunks

1 medium onion, peeled chopped

1 bay leaf

1 sprig fresh parsley

1 sprig fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme

4 1/2 cups chicken stock, divided

1 1/2 cups plain yogurt

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

In a medium-sized saucepan, combine the zucchini, onion, bay leaf, parsley and thyme with 1 cup of the chicken stock and bring to a boil over high heat. Simmer mixture for about 10 minutes, or until zucchini is tender. Remove bay leaf, parsley and thyme. Puree mixture in a blender or food processor until it is of uniform consistency.

For a smooth soup, strain puree by pressing it through a strainer or sieve with back of a spoon. An unstrained soup will have a slight texture. Add remaining chicken stock, the yogurt, lemon juice, salt and white pepper and stir well to blend. Pour soup into a 1 1/2-quart covered container; chill for at least 1 hour before packing in a cooler.

Makes 8 servings.

Recipe from “Picnic: 125 Recipes with 29 Seasonal Menus,” by DeeDee Stovel (Storey, 2009).

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Dairy-free dressings won’t weigh down salads

Salads are the cook’s defense against cooking in such searing heat.

Although a stove or grill is indicated for portions of the recipes that ran with this week’s salad story, lower serving temperatures still have the cooling effect we’re craving this time of year. And while the salads featured in this week’s food section are hearty, they’re all lightly dressed without mayonnaise and dairy ingredients that both spoil easily in the sun and weigh down digestion.

In that vein, here are some dairy-free dressings to try throughout the summer. They make good use of herbs that are starting to flower in the sustained heat. The first, a variation on classic goddess dressing, can be made in a food processor. But because the subsequent two recipes rely on nuts for richness and texture, a blender is required to ensure emulsification.

These are from The Washington Post Food editor Joe Yonan, author of “Eat Your Vegetables: Bold Recipes for the Single Cook,” (Ten Speed Press, 2013).

From left, Cilantro Goddess Dressing, Cherry Tomato-Basil Dressing, Cashew-Mint Dressing. Photo for The Washington Post by Deb Lindsey.

Cilantro Goddess Dressing

12 ounces silken tofu, drained

1 large or 2 small garlic cloves, peeled

1 cup lightly packed cilantro leaves and stems

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar

1/4 cup peanut oil (may substitute vegetable or canola oil)

1 tablespoon peeled and chopped, fresh ginger root

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste

In a blender or food processor, combine the tofu, garlic, cilantro, lime juice, vinegar, oil, ginger and 1/2 teaspoon salt; puree until smooth, stopping to scrape down sides of blender or food processor bowl as needed. Taste and add salt if needed.

Transfer to a container with a tight-fitting lid; use right away or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. Makes 16 servings (about 2 cups).


Cherry Tomato-Basil Dressing

1 pint cherry tomatoes, stemmed, each cut in half

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped, fresh basil leaves

1/4 cup pine nuts (may substitute walnuts)

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste

In a blender jar, combine the tomatoes, oil, basil, pine nuts, mustard and 1/4 teaspoon salt; puree until creamy and smooth, stopping to scrape down sides of blender jar as needed. Taste and add salt if needed.

Transfer to a container with a tight-fitting lid; use right away or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.

Makes 12 servings (about 1 1/2 cups).


Cashew-Mint Dressing

1/2 cup raw cashews

1/4 cup lightly packed fresh mint leaves

1/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar

1 teaspoon honey

1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste

In a blender jar, combine the cashews, mint, vinegar, honey, 1/4 teaspoon salt and ¼ cup water; puree until creamy and smooth, stopping to scrape down sides of blender jar as needed.

Taste, and add salt if needed. Transfer to a container with a tight-fitting lid; use right away, or refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. Makes 8 servings (about 1 cup).

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Steamer clams for the stockpot stir memories

Speaking of abundant seafood: A cache of steamer clams narrowly missed their date with my stockpot after a recent weekend at the coast.

Seeing those sturdy shells never fails to remind me of my childhood dining at the now-defunct Moe’s restaurant in Coos Bay, where plastic sand pails of steamers were a staple.

I still adore littleneck clams and mussels, simmered in broth and wine and plucked straight from their shells. Bivalves and other mollusks always seem a bit road-weary in Rogue Valley fish cases, and most in freezer sections are farmed in Asia.

The ones at Chuck’s Seafood in Charleston were particularly fine specimens, harvested in chilly Washington waters, the fishmonger confirmed. Clams will keep, still live, on ice for several days. But I didn’t want to chance purchasing them too far in advance then subjecting them to the road trip home. So I vowed we wouldn’t miss out next time.

Recipes abound for steamed clams, but this one with kimchi recently caught my eye. The addition of sausage would please my husband, a fellow lover of big bowls of mussels and their ilk.

Garlic sausage, listed in the ingredients, may be almost as elusive here as truly fresh seafood. Recipe testers for The Washington Post found it at Whole Foods Markets.
I would choose any good-quality, fresh sausage. Fennel-flavored goes well with the traditional flavor profiles for clams and mussels. The garlic component would be even better achieved with slices of garden- or farmers market-fresh allium.

The Post adapted this recipe from one by Lee Gregory of the Roosevelt, in Richmond, Va., included in “80 Forks: A Cookbook Featuring Richmond’s Most Admired Chefs, Restaurants and Cuisine” (Blunt Objects, 2014).

Photo for The Washington Post by Deb Lindsey

Clams With Sausage and Kimchi

30 to 40 littleneck clams

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

12 ounces to 1 pound fresh garlic sausage

8 ounces kimchi

4 ounces white wine, pale ale, no-salt-added chicken broth or water

Toasted bread, for serving

Place the clams in a bowl of clean, cool water; swish them about for a minute or two, then rinse clams and scrub them with a stiff brush under running water. Discard any that remain open when tapped with a finger.

Melt the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed saute pan or wok over medium heat.

Remove and discard the sausage casings. Pinch off pieces of sausage into butter. Cook for about 6 minutes, stirring to break up sausage, until it loses its raw look.

Meanwhile, puree half of the kimchi in a food processor until the chunks disappear. Coarsely chop remaining.

Add clams to pan or wok, stirring to incorporate, then add the liquid of your choice (wine, beer, broth or water). Cook, uncovered, for 2 minutes, then stir in pureed kimchi and chopped kimchi. Increase heat to high; cover and cook/steam for about 6 minutes or until clams open.

Divide mixture among wide, shallow bowls, discarding any clams that failed to open. Serve hot, with toasted bread. Makes 3 or 4 servings.

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  • Blog Author

    Sarah Lemon

    Sarah Lemon covers the Rogue Valley’s food scene with an enthusiasm that rivals her love of cooking. Her blog mixes culinary musings and milestones with tips and recipes you won’t find in the Mail Tribune’s weekly A la Carte section. When ... Read Full
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