Leave fruits whole for crumbles in a time crunch

Fruit crisps are easy to assemble with minimal ingredients, qualities that earned them a nod in a recent story on five-ingredient dishes.

Almost indistinguishable from the fruit crisp is the fruit crumble, according to cooking dictionaries. When time is of the essence, a crumble recipe that leaves fruits nearly whole is practically effortless, particularly when the topping already is stashed away in the freezer, as cooking instructor Amy Spence suggested for A la Carte.

Without the yogurt garnish, ingredients in this recipe, courtesy of Tribune News Service, just exceed Spence’s bare-bones version. Take out the walnuts if you’re not a fan, and you’re right at five ingredients.

I like this dish’s use of pears, which are nearing the end of their availability and are likely to be lesser specimens than fall’s new crop. But roasting renders even end-of-season pears silky and sweet. Firm varieties, such as Bosc and Anjou, are best-suited to this treatment. I recently spied both in my grocers’ produce section.

Pears are one of the leading fruit sources of dietary fiber, notably when they retain the peel, as a recent story in the Kansas City Star acknowledged. Neatly remove the pear’s core with a melon baller.

Tribune News Service photo

Roasted Pear Crumble

3 ripe pears, unpeeled, halved and cored

1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and divided

1/2 cup old-fashioned rolled oats

3 tablespoons chopped walnuts

4 teaspoons honey, divided

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 (5.3-ounce) carton nonfat vanilla yogurt

Preheat oven to 400 F. Spray an 8-inch baking dish with nonstick spray. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil and spray with nonstick spray.

Arrange the pears, cut side up in prepared baking dish. Brush pears lightly with 1 tablespoon of the melted butter. Place dish on 1 side of preheated oven. Bake, uncovered, for 20 minutes, or until pears are tender when pricked with a fork.

Meanwhile, place the oats in a small mixing bowl and drizzle with remaining 1/2 tablespoon melted butter. Stir to coat well. Stir in the walnuts, 3 teaspoons of the honey and the cinnamon to coat evenly. Spread oat mixture in a single layer on prepared baking sheet. Bake, uncovered, alongside pears for 7 to 8 minutes or until golden-brown, stirring every 3 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside.

Stir remaining 1 teaspoon honey and the vanilla into yogurt.

To serve, place a warm pear, cut side up, in an individual serving dish. Drizzle with about 1 tablespoon yogurt mixture and sprinkle with about 2 tablespoons oat mixture.

Makes 6 servings.

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U.S. dietary guidelines change little with the times

The U.S. government’s MyPlate dietary guidelines were no mystery to kids at Medford’s Howard Elementary participating in a recent cooking class.

When I, in my role as volunteer nutrition educator, held up the pie chart-type illustration and asked who had seen it before, every hand in the room shot skyward. And the kids, for the most part, knew their corresponding vegetables, fruits, proteins, grains and dairy.

But the guidelines, as all of us who learned the Basic Four food groups, Food Pyramid and MyPyramid know, change with the times. They’re due for a revamp this year based on a government advisory committee’s key suggestions, including a more relaxed stance on consumption of coffee, dietary cholesterol and even alcohol but renewed emphasis on avoiding added sugar and cultivating a plant-based diet.

The last in that list — surprise! — comes with acknowledgement that meat-heavy diets (at least ones fueled by the standard, agribusiness model) have hefty carbon footprints and are ultimately unsustainable. Predictably, this decades-old tenet of environmental responsibility comes with some backlash from the meat industries.

It may come as a different sort of surprise that, for all the supposed science behind them, the guidelines haven’t changed all that much 35 years since the government published its very first version. The 1980 directives: Eat a variety of foods. Maintain ideal weight. Avoid too much fat, saturated fat and cholesterol. Eat foods with adequate starch and fiber. Avoid too much sugar. Avoid too much sodium. If you drink alcohol, do so in moderation.

Anyone interested in the past decade of Dietary Guidelines for Americans can get a historical perspective online. Then add your comments to the latest proposed guidelines at www.dietaryguidelines.gov. The comment period has been extended until May 8.

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Give Easter ham the egg treatment in sandwiches

It’s a tough time of year for hard-boiled-egg haters, particularly those with children who decorated a dozen or so for Easter.

I personally can’t comprehend this affliction and have many times lauded eggs as the perfect food. Over the years, this blog also has bowed to pressure from colleagues and readers to suggest uses for leftover hard-boiled eggs.

Not so this year. I’ve learned in more than a decade of living with a hard-boiled-egg hater that the only way to mask what he perceives as a sulfurous scent and rubbery texture is with spicy sausage coated in crispy breading. It’s fitting that the Scotch egg is the only way that my half-Scottish spouse will face down one of his food nemeses.

The Easter ham is far more likely to tax my enthusiasm for reinventing leftovers. That’s why I like to dispatch the lot in a ham-and-bean soup after carving off slices for several days’ worth of sandwiches.

But ham can just as easily shine as a sandwich filling in the manner of hard-boiled eggs. It can even be “deviled” like its Easter counterpart, a revelation when I was still a kid cultivating a taste for all things mayonnaise-laden.

So here are some classic formulas for ham salad, courtesy of Tribune News Service, along with a sweet-salty variation on the standby ham-and-cheese.

Ham Salad: Nothing can be easier to make than this sandwich spread. Trim fat from ham slices. Chop ham in food processor. Add mayonnaise and pickle relish to taste and enjoy between two slices of bread.

Deviled Ham:You can make a fancy ham salad by taking 4 cups coarsely chopped ham and adding 1/2 cup minced fresh parsley, 1/2 cup mayonnaise, 6 tablespoons softened butter, 1/4 cup whole-grain Dijon mustard, 3 tablespoons dry white wine, 1 finely chopped celery rib, 2 finely chopped green onions, 1 teaspoon lemon zest, 3/4 teaspoon black pepper and 1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper. Cover and chill for up to 8 hours. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before enjoying with crackers or rustic bread. Makes about 4 cups.

Tribune News Service photo

Ham, Cheese and Apple Sandwiches:

Turn broiler on high. Melt 4 tablespoons butter. Slice 8 ounces Gruyere or cheddar cheese. Core and slice 1 apple. Brush butter onto 1 side of 8 bread slices. Slather other side with Dijon mustard to taste.

Assemble 4 ham, cheese and apple sandwiches so buttered sides of bread face out. Put on rimmed baking sheet. Toast 2 to 3 minutes per side. Serve immediately.

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Light lemon souffles are an easy Easter treat

Spring’s first strawberries foreshadow the bright, juicy berry bounty that’s just around the corner.

And there’s little that complements fresh, sweet berries like a bit of citrus, the topic of a February story in A la Carte. As strawberries offer variety during the rapidly waning citrus season, now’s the time to pair the two.

One of my favorite salads, mentioned in a previous post, does just that with avocado and a raspberry vinaigrette. The recipe actually lists canned mandarin oranges, but I use fresh clementines, tangelos and the like as long as they’re available.

I’m also capitalizing on the availability of Meyer lemons as often as possible, including in last weekend’s buttermilk-lemon pie, adapted from the 2003 cookbook “Lemons: Growing, Cooking, Crafting.” Filched from my grandmother, the book also has a recipe for lemon gelatin cut into duckling shapes. I could see those at a gathering of Oregon Ducks, for a baby shower or as tangy alternative to Easter’s Peeps.

For a more sophisticated treat this Sunday, I would serve up these Meyer lemon souffles, with a side of macerated strawberries. Highlighted in a recent Chicago Tribune food section, the souffles are ready in about 30 minutes.

Tribune News Service photo

Meyer Lemon Souffles

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, divided, plus more for preparing ramekins

1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, cut up, plus more for preparing ramekins

4 or 5 large Meyer lemons

4 eggs, separated

Butter and sugar 6 (1/2-cup) ramekins; set them on a rimmed baking sheet. Preheat oven to 425 F.

Zest 2 of the lemons. Squeeze as many lemons as needed to measure ¾ cup strained juice.

In a heavy medium saucepan, whisk the egg yolks with lemon zest and juice, ¾ cup of the sugar and the butter. Whisk over medium heat until thick, for 10 to 12 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a large, clean bowl. Let cool a few minutes.

Using a heavy-duty mixer with whisk attachment, whip the egg whites until foamy. With mixer running, sprinkle in remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and continue whipping to glossy, white peaks, for about 1 to 2 minutes.

Whisk a big spoonful of whites into lemon curd to lighten it. Scrape in remaining whites. Using a flexible spatula, fold curd into whites. Do this gently, so as not to crush meringue and thoroughly, so as not to leave any white blobs. Ladle into prepared ramekins.

Slide sheet of ramekins into preheated oven and bake until golden and dramatically puffed, for 8 to 9 minutes. Taking care with hot ramekins, serve and eat right away.

Makes 6 small souffles.

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Try slightly smoky baked beans instead of refried

With a cooking surface several times larger than a Weber kettle, a wood pellet-fired smoker is seeing lots of use at my house.

Mentioned in a previous post, my husband’s new Rec-Tec is proving its versatility, even as a pizza oven. Not only can we cook several components of a single meal at once, but we’ve been cooking additional meats — whole chickens, sausages, etc. — for the coming week in one shot.

A classic side dish with so many smoked and grilled meats, baked beans have factored into some of our recent feasts. Beginning with whole, dried beans, soaked overnight is ideal.

That’s how we started some white beans that later simmered in homemade lamb stock and got a flavor boost from tomatoes, brown sugar, hot sauce and fresh herbs. I put the brakes on adding bacon, considering that we already had tri-tip on the smoker.

But pork fat no doubt will show up as the outdoor cooking season heats up. And when meat on the smoker is destined for tacos, tostadas or other Latin dishes, these subtly smoky charro beans would complement the main course and could cook right alongside it. If using canned beans, they’re ready in about 35 minutes.

Tribune News Service photo

Cowboy Charro Beans

6 slices bacon, chopped

8 ounces fresh, uncooked Mexican chorizo, casings removed

1 medium white onion, peeled and finely chopped

1 jalapeno pepper, stemmed, seeded and finely chopped, or more to taste

1 (14-ounce) can no-salt-added, chopped tomatoes or 1/2 pound fresh Roma tomatoes, cored and chopped

3 (15-ounce) cans pinto beans, drained and rinsed (or about 5 cups cooked pinto beans and their cooking liquid)

Kosher salt, if needed

Fresh cilantro, chopped

Tortillas, warmed, for serving

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, cook the bacon until lightly browned and starting to crisp, for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the chorizo; cook, breaking up sausage into smaller pieces, until it starts to brown and crisp, for 4 to 5 minutes.

Add the onion and jalapeno; mix well. Cook until they begin to soften, for 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes; cook, stirring, until tomatoes begin to break down and ingredients come together, for 3 to 4 minutes.

Add the beans; mix well and reduce heat to medium. Cook, covered, until beans are moist but not soupy, for 8 to 10 minutes. Add broth or water if needed. Taste and add more salt to taste. Serve in bowls, topped with the cilantro and accompanied by the warmed tortillas.

Makes 4 servings.

Recipe adapted by the Chicago Tribune from the website of Pati Jinich, www.patismexicantable.com.

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Stoke meat-smoking passion with these tips

Two years of researching brands and saving spare cash paid off last month when my husband set up a wood pellet-fired smoker on the back deck.

Will has since smoked everything from whole chilies to rabbit in the Rec-Tec. It comes as little surprise, though, that beef tri-tip has been the most well-received by Will and dinner guests. Despite my aversion, other cuts of beef can’t be far behind, particularly when the outdoor cooking season ramps up.

Brisket, of course, is the quintessential stuff of beef barbecue. This dish got in-depth treatment by the Washington Post with a profile of Texas A&M University’s Camp Brisket, which ran this month in A la Carte. After printing a recipe for Texas Smoked Brisket, however, the paper didn’t have room to incorporate copious tips that accompanied the Post’s original version of the story. Find the story and recipe in the March 11 e-edition of the Mail Tribune.

So here they are for all the meat-smoking enthusiasts and friends and family who benefit from their enthusiasm:

Photo for The Washington Post by Deb Lindsey

Don’t inject. A quadrillion Texans know what Lyndon B. Johnson’s pitmaster, Walter Jetton, knew: A brisket is “self-basting.” Among the worst epithets a brisket can be called is “roast-beefy.” Injecting makes briskets roast-beefy. Concerned about it being succulent enough? Wrap your brisket in foil after about four hours. Even better: butcher paper, because, unlike foil, it breathes.

Keep it simple. Forget brining and super complicated rubs. Brown sugar mates well with pork butt; cayenne is a nice touch on pork ribs. But the best pitmasters in central Texas use nothing more than kosher salt and cracked black pepper. The point is to not mask flavor, but to enhance it. Coat the meat liberally to create a rough, thickish texture. Use equal parts salt and pepper for balance, or 60 percent of one or the other if you prefer a peppery or a saltier crust.

Know how to position it. Set brisket on the cooking grate fat-side up. You want the fat to melt through the meat to moisten and provide richness. If cooking in an offset smoker, face the point toward the fire to achieve a better crust and avoid overcooking the flat.

Hold steady. Don’t go nuts trying to maintain a specific temperature. The primary goal is to avoid drastic fluctuations, so try to keep the temperature between 225 and 275 F throughout the cooking time. If using a kettle grill, keep the bottom vents open about halfway and use the lid vents to help maintain temperature. If using an offset smoker, learn the hot and cold spots of your cooking chamber and move the brisket if needed. Mainly, though, keep the top on and resist the temptation to peek.

Keep an eye on it. “Don’t walk off and think the fire will take care of itself,” says pitmaster Aaron Franklin, who has his own PBS cooking show and soon will release his first cookbook. “If you’re going to buy this expensive cut of meat, buy firewood, sit there for 10, 12, 15 hours, let it rest, invite people over, do all this stuff — I mean, that’s a serious commitment. Don’t you want to do a good job?”

Be patient. “It will be done when it’s ready,” says Franklin.

Give it a rest. You know how everybody tells you to rest a steak before cutting into it? Same thing with a brisket. Wrap it in foil after taking it off the grill and let it rest for at least an hour. Contrary to popular belief, the pros don’t pull off their briskets and slice them when hot. They pull them off and place them in warmers set at 140 F for up to three hours. For you to achieve the same result, wrap in foil and cover with towels in a room-temperature cooler and hold for between two and three hours.

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Top toast with smashing beet, cheese spread

Tribune News Service photo

Ways for enjoying beets with cheese have been suggested in several recent posts to this blog.

Whether the root vegetable is roasted or raw, the cheese firm or soft, rich, savory dairy adds a satisfying note to earthy beets. But really, doesn’t cheese make just about everything better?

So in that vein, here is one more recipe to try, which acknowledges the anything-as-toast-topping trend. I hopped on board after writing a story about local “toast bar” Uber Herbal last summer. Maybe this one will make its menu.

Beet and Feta Smash

6 ounces cooked beets

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 teaspoons fresh orange juice

2 teaspoons rice-wine vinegar

Salt and pepper, to taste

3 ounces crumbled feta

4 slices toast

Orange zest, for garnish

In a bowl, smash the beets with the olive oil, orange juice and vinegar; season to taste with the salt and pepper. Mix in the feta. Mound mixture on top of the toast slices; sprinkle with the orange zest. Makes 4 servings.

Recipe from Every Day with Rachael Ray.

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Have a ball at this weekend’s cheese festival

Course after course of cheese, from cheesy risotto and cheese shaved over carpaccio to fresh mozzarella curds and whipped chevre Chantilly cream for dessert, will unfold tonight at Larks restaurant in Medford.

The sold-out meet-the-cheesemaker dinner kicks off the weekend’s 11th annual Oregon Cheese Festival at Rogue Creamery in Central Point. The meal celebrates Oregon’s finest cheeses, tempting palates to sample many more Saturday, along with artisan foods and beverages.

But even among chefs who devised tonight’s feast, there’s no denying the appeal of a cheese ball. Breaded and deep-fried croquettes of goat cheese accent the beet salad at Larks in Ashland, as well as other restaurants around the country.

The humble cheese ball is so clichéd, according to cooks and food writers, that it’s poised to attain cool status again. Late last year, several publications revisited the cheese ball, refining it with gourmet ingredients and fusion flavors.

There are several rules of thumb when crafting a worthwhile cheese ball. First, it needs to taste like a specific cheese — Gorgonzola, Gouda or Gruyere, for example — not just bland cream cheese. Better yet, substitute a smooth chevre, maybe cut with mascarpone, for cheaper cream cheese.

Second, a cheese ball must have texture, but not necessarily chopped nuts. Try crumbled, crispy bacon, pomegranate seeds or even an “everything bagel” seed-and-spice mix.

These suggestions were compiled by Tribune News Service:

Bon Appetit recipes included Pine Nut and Feta Cheese Ball, Everything Spice-Coated Cheddar Cheese Ball and Green Goddess, Pistachio and Goat Cheese Ball.

Huffington Post shared links to 16 recipes, such as Southwestern Bacon Jalapeno Cheese Ball and Pomegranate Jeweled Cheese Ball.

Rachael Ray magazine ran recipes for a Clam Bake Ball and Lemon-Pistachio Cheese Ball.

Blue cheese from this weekend’s festival could be combined with a soft, unaged cheese in the following recipe from Tribune News Service.

Tribune News Service photo

Bacon-Blue Cheese Ball

8 ounces cream cheese, softened

4 ounces crumbled blue cheese

3 slices crisp bacon, crumbled

3 scallions, white and tender green parts, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons butter

Salt and pepper, to taste

1 cup toasted, chopped pecans

In bowl of a stand mixer or in a large bowl, combine the cream cheese, blue cheese, crumbled bacon, green onions, butter, salt and pepper. Using mixer attachments or a wooden spoon, mix until well-combined. Taste and adjust seasonings.

Place the toasted, chopped pecans in a pie plate or inside any wide dish with an edge. Use a spatula to bring cheese ball together and form a loose ball. Use hands to mold into a tight ball; roll around in nuts until completely covered. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours before serving with crackers or crostini.

Makes 24 to 30 servings.

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Fewer and fewer of us eschew brilliant beets

Beets haven’t graced the section front of the Mail Tribune’s A la Carte for eight years.

Although frequently mentioned in this blog, the root vegetable didn’t exactly meet with other newspaper editors’ favor. Recalling that bias, I savored my chance to run the recipe for dark-chocolate brownies devised to disguise beets for those who haven’t succumbed to their charms.

That’s fewer and fewer of us these days. As this week’s story acknowledged, there’s hardly a fine-dining or farm-to-table restaurant that doesn’t have its riff on the beet salad, particularly in cold weather, when it’s one of the only truly local vegetables.

Indeed, I spied a salad of roasted beets, goat-cheese croquettes and walnuts recently on the menu at Larks restaurant in Ashland. The flavor combination is still appealing years after it became a salad-course staple. But I passed because I’ve been getting my fill in my own kitchen, particularly with peak-season citrus, the topic of another recent food-section story.

Hybrids, such as clementines, mandarins, tangelos and the like, make a particularly pleasing contrast to earthy beets. A recent rendition in my kitchen also featured firm sheep-milk feta, instead of creamier chevre, accented with toasted pine nuts, a drizzle of olive oil and sprinkle of sumac, which also echoes the beets’ magenta hue. A few pea shoots rounded out the colors and textures.

photo by Sarah Lemon

Here is a similar take, conceived by Pistache French Bistro in West Palm Beach, Fla. Faithful to the restaurant’s name, pistachios are prominent in this dish, along with ricotta cheese and citrus. Red beets could be substituted.

Roasted Golden Beet Salad

3 pounds golden beets

3 tablespoons olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling

1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

1/2 teaspoon white pepper, plus more to taste

Fresh lemon zest and juice, to taste

Fresh lime zest and juice, to taste

4 tablespoons ricotta

1/2 cup shelled pistachios

1/4 cup canola oil

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons minced shallots

1 tablespoon minced chives

2 clementines, peeled and sectioned

2 cups baby arugula

Toss the beets with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the salt and pepper. Make a bag out of aluminum foil and place beets in foil with ¼ cup water. Seal tightly and bake in a preheated, 350-degree oven until easily pierced with a knife, for about 45 minutes. Remove beets from oven and let cool for 30 minutes. Using a dry towel, rub skin offs. Cut beets into 3/4-inch wedges and reserve.

In a bowl, stir the fresh citrus zest and juice to taste into the ricotta.

Toast the pistachios in a 350-degree oven until fragrant, for 5 to 10 minutes. Let cool. Place in a food processor. Slowly drizzle in the canola oil with machine running until mixture reaches consistency of chunky peanut butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Have ready 4 chilled plates. Smear 1 tablespoon ricotta mixture on plate in a strip about 6 inches long. In a medium-sized mixing bowl, toss beets with the sherry vinegar, remaining olive oil, the shallots, chives and pistachio pesto. Season with salt and pepper.

Place beets on top of ricotta. Place the clementine sections around beets; top with the arugula. Drizzle with a bit more olive oil and finish with a squeeze of lemon juice.

Makes 4 servings.

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Chocolate festival winners came from near and far

Chocolatiers beyond Oregon took home some of the top honors at last weekend’s Oregon Chocolate Festival in Ashland.

For the first time, the 11th annual festival opened competition to chocolatiers in other states. Two California companies placed in the top three.

Best in show was awarded to San Francisco’s CocoTutti. I deliberated with other judges over its Florentine, a liquid caramel infused with citrus, encased in dark chocolate and topped with almonds, but we favored a guava wood-smoked salt confection in the chocolate candy category. Yet CocoTutti’s impeccable miniature pieces for sampling impressed us while its ginger caramel with Thai chili and peanuts blew us away. The newcomers also were runners-up in the People’s Choice vote, which was cast for Holm Made Toffee Co..

First runner-up went to Smitten Artisan Truffles, winner in the chocolate truffle category. The Portland company offers neat, little tastes of flavored ganache, rather than fracturing its truffles to provide samples. The owner says the method, unique to the festival, was inspired by selling a friend’s goat cheese.

Second-runner status delighted Cowboy Toffee Co., of Oakdale, Calif. Folksy but focused branding around its Western theme helped to elevate samples of its ghost-chili and s’mores toffees.

In case you didn’t catch them on Twitter and Facebook, here are the other winners.

Best traditional use of chocolate: Cabruca Chocolates; best nontraditional use of chocolate: Cascade Slushies; best chocolate candy: Waimea Chocolate Co.; best chocolate truffle: Smitten Artisan Truffles; best raw chocolate: The Great Unbaked; best student chocolate creation: Oregon Coast Culinary Institute, Kayla Carrell.

Los Angeles Times photo

I brought home enough artisan chocolate to tide over my family this week. If all you have around is a run-of-the-mill variety, make it extra-special by transforming it into a luscious fudge sauce for dipping and drizzling. This recipe, courtesy of the Los Angeles Times, is supposed to be foolproof, so long as it’s heated slowly.

Bittersweet Hot Fudge Sauce

9 to 10 ounces bittersweet (70 percent) chocolate, finely chopped

3/4 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons corn syrup

In top of a double boiler touching barely simmering water, combine the chocolate, cream, sugar, corn syrup and 2 tablespoons water. Stir frequently until all chocolate has melted, then stir occasionally until sauce is thick and glossy and is 160 to 165 F (exact temperature is not critical, so long as it is close), for 15 to 20 minutes (going slowly is key here). Remove from heat and serve.

Makes about 1 pint.

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    Sarah Lemon

    Sarah Lemon covers the Rogue Valley’s food scene with an enthusiasm that rivals her love of cooking. Her blog mixes culinary musings and milestones with tips and recipes you won’t find in the Mail Tribune’s weekly A la Carte section. When ... Read Full
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